HondaCivicForum.com - Solid Torque Mounts

1. Why would you want to do this?

Less engine movement when taking off from a dig/shifting = smoother/etc. Also, you won't have to worry about the mounts having to be replaced for a loooong time as they would now be solid polyurethane.

2. How long does this take?

Actual working time = about 60 minutes
Waiting for stuff to dry time = about 4-5 days

3. Precautions?

Wear rubber gloves (see bottom). Don't beat on your car like crazy when the torque mounts are out.

4. What's needed?
Assorted sizes sockets (12mm, 14mm, and 17mm...if I remember correctly); socket wrench; socket wrench extensions; 3M Window Weld; some sort of thick tape for the window weld to create a flat surface against...see below

Step 1 - Jack up the car and remove the stock mounts

Always use jack stands! Never trust the jack itself to hold the car up while you're under it!

Passenger Side
Starting with the passenger side, remove the three bolts holding the tranny torque mount.

Attachment 14486

Now unbolt the torque mount.

Attachment 14487

Remove the nut holding the torque mount from the tranny mount. No pics, but it should be obvious.

Driver's Side

Similar to the passenger side, but easier IMO. Get under the car where the AC set-up is an look for a similar looking mount that you removed from the passenger side.

Attachment 14488

It should be right in front of the wheel. Remove the nut holding the mount onto the AC stuff, and then the two bolts holding the mount to the chassis of the car.

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC01959.jpg

Step 2 - Cleaning and Prep.

Now that the mounts are out, shave off the little extra pieces of the mounts to make it "smoother"

Attachment 14489

I'm glad I did this as my driver's side mount was 3/4 way to dead.

Attachment 14490

Luckily, I'll be able to salvage the mount. Just in time before I would have had to replace it entirely.

Now, wipe the mounts down to get all the salt/dirt/oil/grime out. Simple Green FTW!

Attachment 14491

Get some duct tape/adhesive tin foil stuff and apply it to one side of the mounts. This will allow the polyurethane to form and retain it's shape while drying.

Attachment 14492

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC01973.jpg

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC01975.jpg

Attachment 14493

Step 3 - Filling the mounts

This is what I used. It is equivalent to 60A.

Attachment 14494

Begin filling the mounts, trying to eliminate any pockets of air from developing.

Attachment 14495

Attachment 14496

Attachment 14497

This is what is should look like:

http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/DSC01990.jpg

Now, get something that will make everything smooth and flatten out the polyurethane.

Attachment 14498

It should look something like this when you're finished.

Attachment 14499

Step 4 - Let dry and Re-install

Read the directions on the tube of polyurethane you used for specific drying directions. Mine said to allow for 36 hours for full curing, but I let them dry for 48 hours. After the 48 hours, I remove the tape on the backs and allow the other side (which wasn't exposed to air) to dry for 48 hours.

Re-Installation.......

- My passenger side slipped right on and I put all the bolts back where they were originally.

- For the driver side, I had to loosen the 2 bolts basically holding the engine to the motor mount on the driver side to allow the motor to "sag" down. Once it is down a little bit, slip the mount on the A/C bracket (where it was removed from), hand tighten the nut on the end, then tighten the engine mount bolts, raising the motor back up to it's proper position.

- Now, you have solid torque mounts for better/smoother shifting/less engine movement within the bay. Additionally, you won't have to worry about them cracking and having to replace them for a loooong time!

Remember to wear gloves! I usually don't think about stuff like this until it's too late. This is after scrubbing my hands with Gojo, Goop, and dish soap.

Attachment 14500

Hope this helps you guys!