Ok Im a 100% Honda Newb, I know search search search, and believe me I have, but I have to make sure the combo I got here is even possible to work correctly. Anyhow I bought the car 96 Civic EX advertised with B16 swap runs rough. I looked at the car runs rough wasn't close.. barely ran at all, anyhow after putting the plug wires on correctly it fixed about 70% of the problems. Now its got this wont run at partial throttle at all super jumpy, shudders badly unless at WOT, then it runs strong. Sitting at idle when it gets close to set at 700 RPMish, it starts the typical Honda jumping idle 500 RPM to 1500 RPM back and forth rather quickly. Here is what I have found or believe I have....

B16A (im figuring B16A2 because it only has one 02 sensor before the cat (none on the upper manifold), there is another after the cat but I believe thats from the car not the swap)

B18C1 head marked P71-1 ( from what ive read this should up my CR to approx. 10.4:1, this sort of crushes my turbo ideas)

5 speed tranny marked S80-3001010 ( previous owner said he searched the vin and it comes from a Integra)

and last but not least the ECU Marked P2P (believe this to be the cars original ECU OBD2 when I pulled it out the top cover was missing so I don't know who's been in it or for what)

The previous owner said the car always ran like it needed a "tune" since the swap was done and it got progressively worse, he Added a Skunk2 70MM Throttle Body trying to fix the problem and of course no go... so its got that TB on it as well. Ive found the front o2 sensor was not connected and the rear one is hacked into some wires running to the ECU, I reconnected the front o2 sensor with no negative or positive effects. I have none of the original parts to swap back so my questions are, will these parts work? is there a better way? and where do I start?

 

if the tag on the motor reads just B16A with no number after the A, it's a JDM spec OBD0 motor

as for the P2P ecu, that is the original ECU for a 96+ EX

If the engine is indeed a B16A (no number) then you will need an appropriate ECU for it , as well as the appropriate OBD conversion harness (PR3, PW0 come to mind) or a chipped P30 with the appropriate OBD conversion harness

If there is a number after the B16A (most likely a 2 or 3), then you will need the appropriate P2T ECU, and no conversion harness

 

No its simple B16A, with the numbers 550 6360 under it. problem we have now come to see is the Head B18C1 is a 97" Obd2 head.. no wonder I cant get things to run right.. Ide like to swap everything over to OBD1 (for programability) but now dont know if I can run OBD1 ECU on OBD0 motor and OBD2 head.. now im more confused realy then when I started.

 

and im pretty sure that the GSR head is 3 mm taller which wouldnt raise your compression it would lower it somethign b/c the combustion chameers are different

 

your running the wrong ecu, get a obd2a to obd1 conversion harness and a p30 ecu

 

obd0 block to obd2 grs head wont make it run rough. If you need an obd2a ecu I have one for sale. Is your wiring obd2a or obd2b? It would be better for you to run obbd2a harness in your car so the whole cars wiring matches. If you have the type b harness I am willing to make you a really good deal on the correct harness for you car. LMK.By the way your car is obd2 keep it that way.

 

I can only hope... this would make my FI ideas I previously had possible without a huge effort. Ill have to find more research on it some where I was reading where two guys were going back and forth about it raising or lowering CR on a B16 and I thought they settled that it actualy raised CR.. but that was from one read without me seeing any technical details.

 

the quench pad on a gsr head is stepped deeper, it offers lower compression stock vs a stock B16/B18C5 head

 

OBD2A - OBD1 Conversion Harness, P30 ECU.

Pick one up and have it tuned.

 

thats what I was thinking does anyone know where abouts mr CR is at with the GSR head?