d15b2 swapping Y8 head
 

As a lot of you already know, I'm swapping a Y8 on my D15b2. I already have the head in, and the obd0 to OBD I harness. The P28 ECU is on the way. I've been doing a lot of research on this swap, and have found a lot of different answers. I have heard many different references to what ECU I should use, what intake manifolds to use, some say to use full engine harnesses, different timing belts, distributors and blah blah. It's getting outrageous how much the stories contradict one another. I'm looking for more straight forward answers. What else do I need to complete my swap? I'm about to pull my hair out. Which is hard, I don't have much. =P

I know exactly how you feel.
I'm researching how to put a Y8 in my DX, not just the head, and there is a lot of different answers for what to use for a dizzy and ecu.
As far as I can tell, you use the Y8 dizzy but it needs to be rewired to OBD1 since the Y8 is OBD2? Or use a Y7 dizzy, since a Z6 doesn't bolt up right.
ECU corresponds to the cam gear you need. P2P ecu = Y8 cam gear. P28 = Z6 cam gear?

From my digging, I think I've decided to use an OBD1 dizzy from a Y7, or see if rewiring the Y8 dizzy is possible. I'm not certain on the cam gear part yet... It could just be superstition.

You want the Y8 manifold though. It's been called the "Type-R" D-series mani, works well.

But then you get into what sensors to use... And all that garbage. That part I don't understand. Map sensor on the TB, instead of the firewall... Bypass with an LS TB? Gah, confusing.

I might thread-jack you. I need to know this stuff too. Lol. You help me, I help you!!!

EDIT: Found this site. http://ef-honda.com/ben/EFswapguide.php
"Engine: 1996 to 2000 USDM D16Y8
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: 127hp@6600rpm/107lb-ft@5500rpm
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 2
ECU: P2P

This motor comes out of 96-2000 civic EXs. The block is essentially the same as the a6 and z6 blocks, but the head is a lot different. It has been said that the z6 head flows better than the y8 head at high rpm. This is due to the port shapes and sizes. There have been many threads on many message boards debating which one is better. Here is a link to one. Also the y8 manifold has shorter, fatter runners and a larger plenum than any of the other d-series manifolds. It has been called the "ITR manifold for the D-series."

If you are not going for all out power then the head difference doesn't really matter. This motor has higher compression and a slightly larger cam than the Z6 and so even though the Z6 head is "better," stock for stock they are about the same as far as moving your car. The Y8 head does have 1 advantage over the Z6 head for us EF OBD0 d00ds. The A6 distributor bolts right up with no modification so there is less ghettoness with this swap than with the z6. Other than the A6 dist you will need a way to activate VTEC which can be done a few different ways. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO).

If you want to go OBD1 follow the link in the Z6 section. I have read that there are a few OBD1 distributors that bolt onto the y8 head (like the CX one) so that shouldn't really be a problem.

Then you need to get a D series cable tranny. The hydro tranny isn't of much use to us EF swap folks because it is a pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs."

That clears up a lot of stuff sorta.

EDIT2: Another site is saying that the 92-95 DX/CX dizzy will work fine. The A6 bolts up fine, but the tooth count is off. I also learned that just because it's a VTEC motor, it doesn't need a VTEC dizzy. Knowledge is power!