B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

Okay I have a choise here of buying an LS motor at a pretty resonable price w/ some pretty resonable miles. All I need to know is which B18 series motor should I go w/. I'm wanting to stay OBD1 with one of the two motors listed in the title. Which one has a better head and or anything else that may or may not strenghten the block. I.E. main cap bolts, head studs, cylinder wall clearance. The plan is to build this block and all else for turbo and nitrous. Any suggestions would help but I am already mind set on a LS motor so please don't try to change my mind on that part. Thanks.

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

b18b has a slightly higher c/r and a slightly different intake cam. buy which ever one you can get cheapest

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

But if I'm building either of them and changing compression ratios w/ pistions, head gaskets, and shaving the head, and also changing the cams then is there any other differance in the block/head?

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

If you want to stay obd1 you should stick with the B18A1 cause the B18B is obd2

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

Whats obd2? I think i may know but i am not really sure

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

dont mean to intrude on ur thread, i was curious what does obd1 and obd2??? are those the ecus?

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

Ditto. I thought it was the ECU, but im not 100% sure

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

Err, B18Bs from 94-95are OBD1. And I think 90-93 B18As are also OBD1.

96+ are all OBD2.

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

OBD 1 and OBD 2 are diffined by the year of the car manufature. Any car below a 96 model is an OBD 1 car. It satnds for On Board Diagnostics btw. It's mostly used in the yearlystate inspection. In most states when you have an OBD 2 car they pull it in and plug their computer up to it. It can tell if you have installed or taken anything off emsions wise. I.E. no cats, turbo, bypassed the EGR. Pretty mush anything that will set your CEL their computer will pick up. And don't think you can just clear the codes and take your car to get it inspected. The computer has to go through a drive cycle (normally about 75-100 miles) so that it can make sure that you actually did fix the problem that it came up with. If your clear the codes out and then take it in for an inspection it will reject the car and put up a Not Ready code. Also you can't just pull the bulb out of the CEL. The computer can check that also! However if you own a 95 back model car they don't hook their computer up to the car. All they do is pop the hood and make sure everything looks to be in order. This is the way it is in the state of N.C. Several other states are about the same way. California is real messed up on their inspections lol. No offense to you guys that live there but good luck getting your car inspected is you have done any modifications to it no matter what the year.

RE: B18A1 vs. B18B1
 

BTW B18A1 years 90-93 are OBD 1. B18B1 years 94-95 are OBD 1 also. I just need to know if there are any difference in the two besides the compression ratios, cams, and basic block layout.