major coolant leak
 

So ive spent all day in the garage looking for this coolant leak and no luck so far... its leaking on the driver's side dripping off the oil pan near the crank pulley... it is a constant drip when i am starting from cold but slows down and stops when the engine is warm and it does not happen on warm days at all, so im thinking theres a gasket problem. Are there even coolant lines on the driver side? ive been looking form underneath the car so there is a chance my i/m could be blocking where its leaking from the top. it also just started when i swapped my stock 93 z6 throttle body for a newer GSR TB which doesnt have the fast idle thermo valve on it.. could that be the whole problem? or is it something more major like my head gasket failing?

It's most likely the water pump underneath the timing belt covers.

You might also want to check whether the IACV or its hose connection on the throttle body is leaking. How did you block off the FITV coolant hose?

IACV hoses and connections are good. FITV wasnt blocked off, theres like a bypass thats connected to the throttle body of a GSR.. maybe its just a smaller version of a FITV... so the water pump?.. well, i guess nows the best time to change it, since i need to change my timing belt since its cracking... any quick fixes so i can drive it this week or should i just pull the motor now?

If you're changing the timing belt, yes change the water pump. Also change your timing belt tensioner.

ive confirmed that it is the water pump leaking... good thing they are less than 50 bucks! just a pain in the butt to put in. is there anything else i should change while i have the motor out and on the ground? i know the timing belt and tensioner... should i go ahead and step up the cam too. id have to remove the belt again to do that.

Well to upgrade the cam or change the cam gear all you really have to do is set the engine to TDC, slide the belt off the cam gear, and then change it out. Afterwards, align the cam/cam gear to TDC and slide the belt back on. But you might as well do it now anyway if you got money for it. lol

There's no need to remove the engine to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Hardest part of the job is breaking the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, which is easiest if you have access to a very good impact gun. Otherwise, you need a special hex tool to hold the crank pulley while you break the bolt loose with a long breaker bar. For more details, download the 92-95 Civic service manual at the link in my signature.

Hex tool:

http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-64879...0085561&sr=8-1