New thermostat CEL
So I put a new thermostat in my car over the weekend, and my water temp gauge finally stays at normal temp, but my CEL comes on after I run the A/C for a few minutes. I disconnected and reconnected the sensor, but it still comes on. What am I doing wrong?
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What is the CEL on for? That would be a good clue as to what is going wrong.
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pull the code, it could be something totally different than your thermostat. Does everything else seem to be running fine?
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Originally Posted by cvcrcr99
(Post 720934)
What is the CEL on for? That would be a good clue as to what is going wrong.
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There is nothing to be confused about. Go get the CEL checked. Hell, it could be completely unrelated to the cooling system like an o2 sensor going bad.
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I tested it and came up with a P0128 code. Keep in mind I have a brand new thermostat and there is plenty of new coolant in it. So it's gotta be electrical or a bad ECT sensor, right?
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What temp Tstat did you install? Maybe the temp you got was different than stock, thus throwing a code since it could be opening too early or late based on OEM calibrations within the ECU. If not, then I would start to look elsewhere such as other sensors, or wiring.
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Did you bleed the cooling system after replacing the thermostat? Any leaks?
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Originally Posted by cvcrcr99
(Post 721384)
What temp Tstat did you install? Maybe the temp you got was different than stock, thus throwing a code since it could be opening too early or late based on OEM calibrations within the ECU. If not, then I would start to look elsewhere such as other sensors, or wiring.
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I always thought fail safe was a type of Tstat, not brand (i.e. Stant), but I could be wrong. I always go with the OEM Tstats from the dealership so I dont have to worry about this type of stuff. Tstats can fail and remain stuck open right from the box.
ninja edit: What temperature Tstat did you install? 170, 180, 190? |
1 Attachment(s)
Again, when you replace the T-stat, you need to bleed the cooling system. I assume you skipped this step.
Attachment 10907 |
And to be specific it is a Fail Safe 7328-170 t-stat. Same temp. as OEM/stock.
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Originally Posted by RonJ
(Post 721420)
Again, when you replace the T-stat, you need to bleed the cooling system. I assume you skipped this step.
http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/u...cture_5010.jpg |
Originally Posted by 05BlueEX
(Post 721421)
And to be specific it is a Fail Safe 7328-170 t-stat. Same temp. as OEM/stock.
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For troubleshooting purposes, understand that we must presume that you are indeed dummy.:) And did you bleed the system exactly as described in the service manual?
With the A/C off, does the radiator fan run when the key is turned to ON(II)? If not, with the A/C on, does the the radiator fan run when the key is turned to ON(II)? If those are fine, next troubleshoot the ECT and IAT sensor circuits. If all else fails, install a known good ECU. |
Originally Posted by RonJ
(Post 721428)
For troubleshooting purposes, understand that we must presume that you are indeed dummy.:) And did you bleed the system exactly as described in the service manual?
With the A/C off, does the radiator fan run when the key is turned to ON(II)? If not, with the A/C on, does the the radiator fan run when the key is turned to ON(II)? If those are fine, next troubleshoot the ECT and IAT sensor circuits. If all else fails, install a known good ECU. |
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