questions about my civic
I know I have a 1.5 liter in it but its faster than the other ones here in my area. all I have is a cold air. I dont know anything else about it. and I was wondering how to get the most power i can out of it before i need to add anything on. exhaust is coming very soon. and also, i see these billet or brushed aluminum fuel doors mine is square how hard is it going to be to put the billet or brushed aluminum fuel door on?
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RE: questions about my civic
your fuel door mod is prolly gonna need the atention of a body worker, odviously you cant put a square in a circle, or vice versa (unless you have a big enough hammer:D) but yea, your exhaust will help a little, have you check into light weight wheels? removing 13 lbs of rotational mass is like removing 63 pounds of chassis weight (or something like that, its on this forum) aslo, removing your spare, but i wouldnt do that if you drive really far. unless your like me and refuse to use a spare.
your a student at wyotech....nice choice...good luck |
RE: questions about my civic
Why waste money on a fuel door. Buy performance parts. If your gona spend money on the fuel door buy stickers for more HP
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RE: questions about my civic
Weight reduction, Spare tire, Jack, Seats, etc. All depends how far you wanna go. Also a tune up will help you out a little if your due for one.
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RE: questions about my civic
i agree with koshak....dont waste time or money on exterior stuff....id rather go fast!!! but even though i agree with dave, most people arnt willing to take out their back seats...i know from experience, they dont weigh much, if you want, PM me and ill go weigh mine...i have them out for my harness...yea, i drive that fast in the corners...all go no show...trust me;)
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RE: questions about my civic
Maybe the fuel door is lighter than the factory.
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RE: questions about my civic
I agree don't put on the brushed fuel door...yuck!!! and as far as what you can do for power without really doing to much here ya go.
Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno proven time and time again. In order to perform this mod, mark the side on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight (that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug, faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it! Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better overall mixture. In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out. Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your factory service manual to find its location. At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time. In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra horsepower. In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done. Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils through my engines and have found that for the most part - all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact, I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil. Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic. Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a far better lubricant and protector of your engine. Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is always going to produce more horsepower. Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However, NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter should only be used for track purposes. Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass With this tip you will usually findalmost 10ft-lbs of torque over the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in the quarter mile.All you need to do on any vehicle is to take twocoolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces of coolant hose. If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve), and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed. This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty hard to explain in a "universal" manor. P.S. The obvious ones:Shed some weight ... take out the seats and what not. 100 lbs = 10hp = .10 off your 1/4. Not really adding HP, but you'll be faster. Alsoyou can save some weight by running with a 1/4 tank or less. 16 gallons of fuel weighs about 130 lbs. Maybe drill some holes in your airbox. That's about all the mods I can think of that you might be able to do for free or very little money.Hope this helps! [align=right] [/align] |
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