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questions about my civic

Old 10-10-2007, 02:33 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Yelm Washington
Posts: 32
Default questions about my civic

I know I have a 1.5 liter in it but its faster than the other ones here in my area. all I have is a cold air. I dont know anything else about it. and I was wondering how to get the most power i can out of it before i need to add anything on. exhaust is coming very soon. and also, i see these billet or brushed aluminum fuel doors mine is square how hard is it going to be to put the billet or brushed aluminum fuel door on?
Old 10-11-2007, 06:32 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,282
Default RE: questions about my civic

your fuel door mod is prolly gonna need the atention of a body worker, odviously you cant put a square in a circle, or vice versa (unless you have a big enough hammer) but yea, your exhaust will help a little, have you check into light weight wheels? removing 13 lbs of rotational mass is like removing 63 pounds of chassis weight (or something like that, its on this forum) aslo, removing your spare, but i wouldnt do that if you drive really far. unless your like me and refuse to use a spare.

your a student at wyotech....nice choice...good luck
Old 10-11-2007, 08:10 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 687
Default RE: questions about my civic

Why waste money on a fuel door. Buy performance parts. If your gona spend money on the fuel door buy stickers for more HP
Old 10-11-2007, 08:12 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Burlington, NJ
Posts: 186
Default RE: questions about my civic

Weight reduction, Spare tire, Jack, Seats, etc. All depends how far you wanna go. Also a tune up will help you out a little if your due for one.
Old 10-11-2007, 09:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Default RE: questions about my civic

i agree with koshak....dont waste time or money on exterior stuff....id rather go fast!!! but even though i agree with dave, most people arnt willing to take out their back seats...i know from experience, they dont weigh much, if you want, PM me and ill go weigh mine...i have them out for my harness...yea, i drive that fast in the corners...all go no show...trust me
Old 10-12-2007, 12:16 AM
D16z6's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Fort Smith, Arkansas
Posts: 1,406
Default RE: questions about my civic

Maybe the fuel door is lighter than the factory.
Old 10-12-2007, 12:51 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 176
Default RE: questions about my civic

I agree don't put on the brushed fuel door...yuck!!! and as far as what you can do for power without really doing to much here ya go.

Modification Number One: Index Your Plugs
The next time you are doing a tune-up on your ride, be sure to
take note of this modification. By simply installing your plugs
in a particular way, you will pick up roughly 1 whp, dyno
proven time and time again.
In order to perform this mod, mark the side
on which the "open end" of the spark plug faces. Proceed to install
them as you normally would, except when the plug is hand-tight
(that is, you've screwed it in without a ratchet as far as it'll go), use
your ratchet to tighten the plug until the open end of the plug,
faces the intake side of your cylinder head. That's it!

Modification Number Two: Insulate Fuel Lines
Under-hood engine heat is a serious performance robber in almost
all cars. Not only does the under-hood heat cause performance
loss by heating up the intake air, but it also causes
performance loss by heating up the fuel lines. Cooler fuel will
help cool the intake charge, as well as provide for a better
overall mixture.
In order to get this stolen power back, simply go down to your
local hardware store and purchase a roll of refrigerator and
air conditioning insulation. Wrap all of your under-hood fuel
lines with the insulation to keep the cool in, and the hot out.

Modification Number Three: Relocate IAT Sensor
In most fuel injected vehicles you will find a sensor that
measures intake air temperature. You will need to refer to your
factory service manual to find its location.
At any rate, it is very typical to find the IAT sensor mounted
inside the intake plenum that is very often heated heavily by
coolant and the cylinder head. This is fine of course, since
the original equipment manufacturer designed it to work this
way. However, there is a way to "trick" the engine computer
into thinking that the incoming air is a little cooler than it
really is, and therefore get the ECU to advance the timing a
small amount and increase fuel supply at the same time.
In most mildly modified vehicles, this will create a more
desirable fuel and ignition map and create a few extra
In order to perform this mod, simply locate the sensor and
remove it from the intake manifold. Fill in the hole with JB
weld and proceed to remount the sensor somewhere in the intake
arm. Seal everything up well, and you're done.

Modification Number Four: Synthetic Oil
In the past 3 years I have been running various types of oils
through my engines and have found that for the most part -
all oils are the same, power wise. However, Synthetic oils
definitely make more power over standard "dino" oils. In fact,
I have consistently seen anywhere from 2-3hp across the rev
range from using a true synthetic versus a standard oil.
Therefore, next time you change oils, switch to synthetic.
Even on a high mileage engine, it works wonders. It is also a
far better lubricant and protector of your engine.

Modification Number Five: Increase H2O Ratio In Coolant
If it weren't for corrosion and freezing concerns, automotive makers
would use pure water to cool your vehicle. Straight water cools
better than coolant any day of the week, and a cooler engine is
always going to produce more horsepower.
Instead of a typical half and half ratio, try 40/60. However,
NEVER use pure water, as this may cause premature corrosion which
will cause a costly repair bill. You may also try water wetter
to further enhance the effect, but be cautioned that water wetter
should only be used for track purposes.

Modification Number Six: Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
With this tip you will usually findalmost 10ft-lbs of torque over
the entire rev range. 10ft-lbs that was present in the engine
when completely cool, but once at operating temperature was
no longer available. This is good for about 0.2 seconds in
the quarter mile.All you need to do on any vehicle is to take twocoolant lines, disconnect them from the throttle body and
connect them with a coupler available in the vacuum hose
section of your auto parts store. It's basically two nipples
connected to each other that allow you to connect two pieces
of coolant hose.
If you have problems with erratic idle afterwards. You will
need to find your fast idle (or idle air control valve),
and disable it by blocking it off or somehow keeping it closed.
This occurs mostly in Hondas to my knowledge, and it's pretty
hard to explain in a "universal" manor.

P.S. The obvious ones:Shed some weight ... take out the seats and what not. 100 lbs = 10hp = .10 off your 1/4. Not really adding HP, but you'll be faster. Alsoyou can save some weight by running with a 1/4 tank or less. 16 gallons of fuel weighs about 130 lbs. Maybe drill some holes in your airbox.

That's about all the mods I can think of that you might be able to do for free or very little money.Hope this helps! [align=right]
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