Replacing Timing Belt
 

Need some advice on whether I should replace my timing belt or pay to have it done. I'm experienced and I understand the procedure but have a few questions. Btw, Its a 1996 civic with 81k miles.

1. Do I need a torque wrench? The fly wheel pulley is the only part that might need it for.

2. Should I replace the belt tensioner and spring? btw, I know to replace the water pump while I'm in there.

3. How much would a mechanic charge? If its around $100 labor I'd be inclined to save myself the hassle. It will cost me $100 for the parts.

The hardest part of the job I'd think would be getting the fly wheel off. I read I need to purchase $25 tool to hold the fly wheel pulley while using a breaker bar.

well its not the flywheel its the crank pulley bolt. if you have a GOOD air compressor and air impact gun it shouldnt be a problem but if its not that good or you dont have at least 150PSI then definatly buy the tool to lock the pulley inplace and then use a 1/2inch socket and extension and a break bar with a pipe and a jack stand and youll be able to crank that sucker right off.... nothing a longer pipe cannt bust free when ya put your back into it ;)

and while your at it IMO replace everything. belt/ water pump/ tensioner/ even crank and cam oil seals. just easy maintance while the motors face is ripped off.

thx for the reply.

I called a couple of shops yesterday and they wanted almost $700 just to replace the timing belt. Two things happened: 1) my jaw dropped and 2) I decided to Do It Myself. I placed an order for the tensioner, belt, water pump, pulley puller tool and a breaker bar (because I don't have air).

I'm not sure about doing the seals. Do I need any special tools for that?

For more details about timing belt replacement, read information at this website:

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-...t-96-00-a.html

I agree with Addiction's comments, although replacement of the cam and crank seals may not be necessary if they are not leaking oil.

Consider replacing the spark plug tube seals and bolt seals and gasket of the valve cover.

You might also check the valve clearances while the valve cover and upper timing belt cover are off.

o ya the valve cover seal. i forgot about that.... and put a dab of sealer on the cam lobes before the seal since those are problem areas for oil leaks. new seal or not its just cheap insurance to keep your motor clean...
the oil seals are not a big deal at all.... if your running regular oil in your motor and the seals are not oily looking then just leave them alone... but if there is oil around either of the seals replace that seal as leaking oil around the belt is definatly not a good thing!

+1 ^ Any place there is a "bend" or corner on your valve cover put some sealer there. those crank pully bolts can suck sometimes. I have a nice air system and impact so it's not a problem but i've done a few with the holding tool and a breaker bar b-4 and it was rough.

RonJ: thx for the detailed instructions. I should get the parts in some time next week. I'll let you all know how it goes.

The parts came in the mail today. I was reading the directions on the water pump box and it says coat gasket with sealer. Although the pump came with a rubber o-ring gasket it didn't come with a sealer. What type of sealer should I buy?

any kind of silicone should be fine. i used HondaBond when i did mine. just be carefull with those water pump bolts. they snap easily.LOL be sure your torquing down in inch lbs instead of foot lbs. ;) woops.....

1) Yes. you dont want parts coming off while your driving due to the nuts and bolts being either over-tightened or too loose.

2) no you dont have to

3) probably like $300 but that is really bad estimate