d15b7

 

to find the engine code it would be on the block on the left of the exhaust manifold about 1/3 of the way down on a little 1'x1' square, is your car actually carburated, or does it has fuel injection?

 

damn dual carbs in 94 didnt realize you guys were still using them. your engine might be a d15b4The carbs are Keihins CV (Constant Velocity) and if im not mistaken you can run a draw through turbo set up with them. although there are a bit you can do to your carbs....heres some things you can do,

First, get two motorcycle cone filters, the ones for performance bikes. Then, remove your stock airbox completely, and block off all attached piping. DO NOT block off the breather hose that goes from your valve cover to your stock airbox, get a breather filter for this one. Remove mesh guaze covers and spacers over carb throats. Take the two cone filters and push their rubber ends THROUGH the spacers. Bolt the spacers with filters attached, back onto carb throats, without the mesh covers. File them in the dustbin... you might have to bend two little copper pipes next to throats slightly inward to accommodate the cone filters. Don't worry, they are purely for athmospherics. If you are not sure about the size filter, take a spacer, drive to your bike hop-up shop and compare sizes before buying. If you can, get filters with the rubber ends slightly larger than the hole in your spacer, to ensure a snug fit. You might have to use super-glue to make them stick... do not worry about a CAI. Carbs respond much better when they are sucking in air from 360 degrees, as opposed to from one direction only, such as a CAI. The gains from two cone-filters on the throats is much bigger than what you would gain from a CAI. Cold air is great for FI, but free breathing is GREAT for carbs...

Next, you do the Keihin CV Carb mod: You will see two silver lids on your carbs, where it says KEIHIN. Carefully remove these lids by unscrewing the screws that hold them in place. Careful not to drop any screws or dirt into the carbs once you've taken the lids off. Underneath you will see two long springs. Take out the first spring, measure it, and then cut off 3-4 coils of the spring. Now, stretch it to the original length... repeat the process with the second spring. Make sure they are the same length as before they were cut. Next, look at the open carbs again. You will see two little plastic stoppers on top of the two pipes that the springs fit over. Mine were black, so yours might be too. Remove and file them.

Now, take the springs and put them back where they came out of, with the uncut ends facing DOWN. Carefully replace the carb lids.

What you've done: The springs control the rate at which the diaphragm piston valve rises when you push the accelerator. After the mod the valve rises much quicker, due to lessened spring density. This vastly improves throttle response. The plastic stoppers prevent the diaphragm valves from raising above a certain point, to keep fuel consumption low. The higher the diaphragm raises, the bigger the needles open, the more fuel you get into your engine. The increased air from the cone filters and the fuel from the quicker lifting and higher lifting diaphragm means a cool 10-15HP increase (if you have a decently built engine already, otherwise, expect less)...

If you want to go even more, you can machine one (1) millimetre out of the carb throats (you will need bigger butterfly's), and source larger jets from Honda bikes or Harley Davidson bikes. They use the same carbs... But this is going extreme. Harleyheads get an extra 20HP from machining and rejetting their carbs. But then they are not very streetable, and your fuel consumption goes for a dive...

info provided from superhonda by hondadog......more can be found here http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135077 search google for dual carb honda

 

Thanks man ior the info.......Do you know if you can a dual carb to be as quick as a vetec?

 

hang on...what trim is it?