Valve Stem Seals
 

I am rebuilding the head on my '94 Civic (D15B7) and I need to change the valve stem seals. I got them off, but how do I install them? Is there a special tool or just some trick to get them in?

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

what i do is get like a 10mm,11mm,or 12mm 1/4 socket which everfits on the seal around the edge but isntbig enough to fit around the guide with a small extention. First start by pressing the new seal as far on straight by hand, then but the socket over the seal and it shouldnt rest on the springs or rubber center that fits around the valve stem. Should rest on the side top of the valve seal and just using a small hammer just tap the seal down until you hear the sound change from tapping it when you know its bottomed out and your done. If you want to make sure the seal is down all the way take a flashlight and look on the inside of the seal and make sure its sitting on the valve guide all around.:DHope this helps

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

Another question, how do you remove the dowel pins on the cylinder head?

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

just grab them with some needle nose pliers, they should just pop out. sometimes you have to use vise grips and clamp onto them/ruining them to get them out

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

Will they need to be replaced then? If they need to be replaced, how much will they run and can they be reinstalled without the use of a press?

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

yeah if you need two more i have tons and tons of them just shoot me an address. No they should pop in and pop out by hand unless there seized in there which is common if the headgasket hasnt ever been changed or the head off the block since the factory

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

I have a questions about the rockers. There are adujusting bolts on the rockers. For some of the rockers the adjusting bolt comes off all the way and for some of the rockers the adjusting bolts turns only a little bit. One the rockers that only turn a little bit, I used a little bit more force on one of the rockers and the nut came all the way off (I turned it by hand, no ratchet needed). Is this normal?

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

If the nut screws back on, then sure. That nut is there to tighten the adjustment bolts after you've adjusted the valve lash. To adjust the valve lash, you'll need a flathead screwdriver and a crescent wrench/open ended wrench. You use the wrench to loosen the nut, then you turn the screw to make adjustments (you'll also need a feeler gauge to make the adjustments). The clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem differs between intake and exhaust valves usually, and the specifications should be on a sticker under your hood.

Once you've finished making the adjustments, tighten the nut down while holding the screw still with your screwdriver. Double check the valve clearance with your feeler gauge to make sure that you didn't go too far off while tightening the nut. Let me know if this is clear enough for you.

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

That was clear enough. I knew it was an adjusting bolt, I just didn't know if it was suppose to be able to completly come off since some came off and some didn't. I think some are just a little stuck. Any tips on getting everything together and getting the head back on? I've never done a headgasket or even a timing belt. For bieng the first time me and my buddy have done this, its gone pretty well (knock on wood).

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

just make sure the cam gear is like with the 180 degree marks align with the top of the head and the "UP" mark is facing up. And make sure the bottom end alignment is aligned as well

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

We put the cylinder head back together and ran into a problem. When you set the cam at TDC, all the valves should be closed. We put everything together and set the cam at TDC. #2 Exhaust and #3 Intake valves are open at TDC. The valves aren't open all the way, but there is a good gap. Before we installed the cam and the rockers, all the valves were closed all the way. I also opened the adjustments all the way and the valves are still open. Any thoughts on why this is happening and how I can fix it? Before we pulled the head and took it apart, all the valves were closed at TDC.

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

thats normal, you are gonna have some exhaust valves open and some closed. Are you following any kind of manuel? The reason the valves were closed is that probably the cam was in a different position. Got any pics of how it looks

RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

I snapped some pics of the valves. How can I set the proper valve clearance if at TDC 4 valves are partially open? Do I turn the cam 90* and then adjust them? I'm not totally positive, but I thought all the valves were closed before I took the head apart. I didn't really specifically check for that, so I'm not positive. Its really not open that much, maybe the thickness of 2 pennies. I gotta make sure the valve stuff is correct b/c that will cause major problems if I reinstall it incorrectly.


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RE: Valve Stem Seals
 

when you adjust valve lash yes you want the valves to be closed. Basically you dont want the lobe opening the valve so you have play between the rocker and the valve to adjust accordingly. Take a picture of the cam gear at what you think is top dead center and i will also take a pic of a head at top dead center and we can compare to see if your on. Two chambers will have open valves just like in your pictures when the head is at Top dead center thats normal and i will take some pics of that as well

Is the valve stem seal something that goes bad often? I'm pondering if I should attempt it or not. I don't think I have any leakage issues anywhere on the car.

you wont notice a leak around the motor from the valve stem seals, if your car smokes at idle or after you ge ton it hard up top and when you start to decel

if your valve stem seals are worn, i recommend mixing some lucas oil stabilizer in with your oil (follow the directions, too much oil in your engine can cause big problems).