Will it make 175whp?
 

This is what I have, let me know what I'm missing:

B20 stock block(block gaurd)
Eagle rods and JE piston's+7 domes(11.68:1 comp)
LS non VTEC head ported,160.8@.200,223.9@.300,278.7@.400,303.2@.500
exhaust was like 210ish @ .250 and was kinda flat, 233@.525
Crower springs and Ti retainers
Brian Crower stage II cams N/A .426@262 and .413@266 something like that
Skunk2 Intake manifold, matched up.
DC 4-1 header
440 injector's
Either on the cheap Neptune or PRO-EFI on the high side...

Not sure about the rest of the odd's and inn's, Trottle body size?68-70?
the rest of the exhaust?, and whatever else..

Thanks for any input

T-flow cylinder heads

Honestly, I'm not going to sit here and tell you you'll definitely see 175 to the wheels, but I will say it's not impossible given the compression and how much you've opened the engine up. I think a lot of it's going to be in how aggressive the timing curve, fuel trim, and AFR is, though, not to mention fuel grade.

Also, have you actually bought the header yet? Depending on your budget, you should definitely look into the equal-length manifolds made by bisimoto. They're dyno tested to about a 15whp gain on single-cams, where most conventional unequal-length designs are giving 1/3 of that at best. On a b20, especially one opened up as much as yours, I think the gains would be decently higher. The downfall is just the price. But keep in mind you're buying (quite literally) a hand-built race header, so you're naturally going to be paying race header prices.

As far as the throttle body, given how much you've opened up the head, I think a 70mm would be good. For the exhaust, I'd go with a 2.5" mandrel-bent cat-back with a high-flow cat. As far as flow, most cat-backs from reputable companies flow about the same, so picking one is mainly just picking how you want the car to sound.

Another thing (though not technically power-related) is the transmission. If you want the best acceleration, I'd recommend the b16 transmission due to its tighter gears. The LS has the longest gears, and the GSR falls between the two, but is fairly close to the gearing of the b16's transmission. All of them will bolt straight up to the b20 block. My personal favorite theoretical transmission is a GSR transmission with an LS final drive, though it's a little more involved than most people would like (let's face it, taking apart a transmission sucks). This, of course, is all assuming you don't already have a transmission to go with it.

No, I don't have the trans yet. Also haven't bought the header yet, we build header's and manifolds at our shop but don't want to spend a sh*t load on a header to be honest.
Looking for the best bang for the buck. Not really trying to set the world on fire... I have another B18 and a couple of VTEC heads and more than likely be putting my money into that heap. The shop want's to do a custom turbo kit and such. I'll be sending the block out for darton sleaves and do whatever it takes to make 450-500whp with it. That's why I really don't want to go crazy with this thing, keep it simple for the most part.
What's the best header for the buck?

Thanks for your help, T-flow cylinder heads

Yeah, that's understandable. I figured you were going all-out with it given what's been done so far to the engine. Really, any unequal-length manifold will flow about the same. If you're not worried about the header being CARB-approved, check out Hedman's Chikara header or look into Megan Racing's headers. They'll flow just as well as a DC piece but for around half the price. I think Hedman only makes a 4-2-1 header for hondas, but I'm not sure about Megan Racing; I think MR offers a 4-1 header.

Cool have to check that out. Thanks, T-flow cylinder heads

No problem. Also, (not sure if you already know or not, so I'll just put it out there) don't worry about the header being for a b20. Any B-series header will fit any B-series engine, so you're probably going to end up needing to get a b16 or a b18 header (if I ran an aftermarket company, I wouldn't really worry about making headers for a CR-V anyway).

Yeah, Got that covered. Thanks for the heads up, Should have the head back together today and should be getting everything else I need next week.
Thanks, T-flow cylinder heads

NOT ANY B series header will fit a B20. The B16 block is shorter than the B18/B20 block. any B18abc header will work just fine. I would go wil a DC 4-1 header for your set up. A 4-1 will give you the best high rmp flow and power. Your cam and head set up is built for high rpm power so they go hand in hand. DC makes some of the best quality header around and they are well known to make power. Plus the wont brake the bank like the bisimoto will.

The DC 4-1 header was my first choice. Also have been looking at a 2 stepped TRY Y merge collector style, not sure as of yet....
And thanks, ya I need a B18/B20 header. Hope to have this JUNK in the car next month some time. Still need a trans.ETC and Neptune RTP and all the other bullsh*t that goes with it.
Thanks,T-flow cylinder heads