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~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

  #1  
Old 09-07-2005, 07:37 PM
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Default ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

ROCK THE D

Note: I'm not trying to start a debate over people who can afford or love their B-Series Engines, just trying to show people why they might want to stick with their single cam slammaa

Now this is going to be a General Idea nothing of course is going to be exact because its just not possible.

Also these are general prices of swaps and info, this is not including the price of aftermarket parts, labor, shipping and anything else you might need!!!

Basics of Engine Swaps: what fits in what

Overview


In order to properly cover every aspect this section will be broken down into many sections. First, its important to decide what you’re goals are. If you’re interested in running 15 second quarter miles without hassle or complication then finding a D16 is probably your best bet. Some of us are interested in running 11 and 12 second quarter miles. For this type of performance it’s important to plan every detail so that the engine is capable and reliable when asked to perform. Another part of planning that should be done before the swap begins is whether or the engine will be naturally aspirated or have forced induction. These are all questions that need to be answered before the swap so that you’re satisfied when everything is complete.
Now we all no that in able to run a D16 motor NA you should pretty much show to get that much power and Speed you are not going to Be able to just drop it in a 90 Crx Si and run it daily on 91 pump gas. So lets just get that out of the way for all "Fast and The Furious" Believers.

Finding the Proper Engine:

There are many engine choices for each vehicle so we’ll cover all of them. First it’s important to understand that On Board Diagnostics play a large role in which engines are easiest and recommended. All Honda’s 1991 and earlier are considered OBD 0. This means that the engines don’t utilize any oxygen sensors and have little in the way of emissions control. Next there are OBD 1 engines that are found in all cars from 1992-1995. These vehicles have traditionally been the best platform for the most “factory-like” hybrids. Finally, anything from 1996-1998 is OBD 2. 1999-2000 is OBD 2b. It’s also important to remember that its only legal to swap in engines of the same or newer OBD series. That is to say that an OBD2 engine can be placed into a 1988 CRX legally and without many wiring problems. Consequently its illegal in most states to use OBD 0 engines in cars that should have OBD1 or OBD2 power plants. Of course there are people who disregard these laws and regulations but its not recommended or necessarily that easy.

4th Generation:

1. ZC,JDM D15B, D16Z6/Y8 : Completely Bolt-In Swap. On the Z6 and Y8 you will have to switch out engine mount from factory EF engine over to New z6/y8 Engine. Now you can Easily get one of these engines if you know your basic resources.
Transmission: Use ZC/ Now for Tranny of course just use 88-91 Si Tranny for best Gearing. You can use Dx 5spd but you do have different final Drive so thats why alot of people try to get there hands on SI tranny.
Shift Linkage: Use stock Civic/CRX shift linkage
Axles: Stock Civic/CRX
Wiring: Retain stock harness
Upper Radiator Hose: stock
Lower Radiator Hose: stock
Throttle Cable: stock
*There may be clearance issues with the ZC, either a new hood, trimming of the old hood or trimming the valve cover is required.
Now for prices of these to go For instance In your 90 Civic Si.
SOHC ZC 120HP $390 plus shipping For complete longblock
DOHC ZC 129HP $525 plus shipping For complete longblock
JDM D15B Vtec 130HP $435 plus shipping complete longblock
USDM D16Z6/Y8 Depending on who you know you can usually get a longblock for around $400 pretty easy or around 800 or so for complete engine/Tranny w/ all accessories.
Now being that you have EF You really have no use for the Hydro Tranny so you can definately get rid of that for around 250 easily if it is in good working condition. Along w/ all the extra parts you will have you can easily sell them to make money back or just keep them incase you ever need to replace something.




2. B16A: 160Hp Full engine swap w/ tranny $1499.99 plus shipping
Mount kit required Hasport EFB1 399.99 plus shipping
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 comes w/ engine ordered
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Hasport linkage around $250
Axles: B16A Axles usually come w/ swap but always fukked up anyways.
Around $70 Apiece
Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit $15 from autopart store
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit $15 from autopart store
Throttle Cable: Use oem
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.Not really needed who does a engine swap and keeps AC /??
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source.
Now just too do the old plain Jane b16 w/ no upgrades and hoping you wont have to by miscellanous parts "WHich You will", the cost is around $2318.99 not counting shipping and also assuming that you are doing swap yourself or w/ some of your buddies for some beer.

3. B18A: Non Vtec 145 HP Engine w/ Tranny complete $2200
Mount kit required Hasport EFB1 mounts $399.99
Transmission: S1, J1, A1, Y1 or YS1 Comes w/ engine swap
Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra Hasport $250
Axles: B18B Axles $70 Each from autoparts store
Wiring: For Si, EX, and HF (port injection) models modify the engine harness to fit. DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection. Custom wiring harnesses are available for dual point injection applications from Hasport.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit $15
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit $15
Throttle Cable: OEM
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
Well for this Swap your looking around $3019.99 like said before this is not including shipping and handling, labor fees and whatever else you might need to finish swap.

OBD1-OBD2 Engine Swaps into 89-91 Civic/CRX

To install an OBD1-OBD2 engine into your 4th Generation Civic/CRX the following adjustments will need to be made. First, if your car has dual point injection a conversion will need to be made to port injection. All Integra's 1994 and up and Civic's 1992 and up all use hydraulic transmissions. Therefore its not compatible with 4th Gen Civic's because these vehicles have cable transmissions. To complete the swap a B-series cable transmission will need to be used or a cable-hydro transmission conversion will need to be made. The left side bracket needs to be changed to a 1990-1993 Integra bracket.
For the ECU, it is best to use the ECU which belongs with the engine. Several wiring adjustments will need to be made to make the engine run correctly.
For LS-VTEC's, CRVTEC's and other Frankenstein's it is easiest to use the ECU that corresponds to the distributor and head. There are also reprogrammed ECU's which can be considered.

4. B16A2 $2250 plus shipping/B16B $3850 plus shipping:
Mount kit required Hasport EFB1 399.99
Transmission: Now with these swaps you will not be able to use the tranny that is provided w/ engine bec
 
  #2  
Old 09-07-2005, 07:42 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

rocking the D here............well im boosting it. lol
 
  #3  
Old 09-07-2005, 09:37 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

http://sohchonda.com/faq/newbie.shtml

all that needs to be said right there
 
  #4  
Old 09-07-2005, 09:53 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

Keeping my D17 going FI next summer.... hopefully. Prolly not but hey one can wish. Soon, very soon.
 
  #5  
Old 09-07-2005, 11:32 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

Now with that setup alone I ran 14.6
Damnit. I knew I should have stayed N/A and built it. The lure of the SC was just too great. I am definitely building a N/A D for my next project.
 
  #6  
Old 09-07-2005, 11:33 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

why not build the D and just turn up your boost controller.........oh nevermind..........lol J/K
 
  #7  
Old 09-08-2005, 12:41 AM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

Yeah that's funny, CEL boy.
 
  #8  
Old 09-08-2005, 12:43 AM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

No MAS CEL MI AMIGO. I fixed that $hit!


fuggin loose ground wire off the ECU
 
  #9  
Old 09-08-2005, 01:50 AM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

post a vid of a good pull then man
 
  #10  
Old 09-08-2005, 03:15 PM
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Default RE: ~Rockin the D series vs. B series~

if you got money...B will be better than D. a built B will eat a built D alive.
 

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