Hello guys, I just regisetred myself on this forum that seems pretty helpful.

So I hope I'm posting at the good place and I'm not going to make the admin mad for my first post

So here's the deal. I'm looking to buy a used car, and it seems I found one at a car dealer not too far from where I leave.

So basically it's a 2001 Honda Civic EX Sedan 4drs, with 100,900 miles.

the price asked by the car dealer is 4,990$. I test drive it today, it seemed pretty good. I had it reviewed by a mechanic of my choice and they found that:

Oil has to be replaced,
The Wiper Blades
A/C Filter too
and a Headlight restoration is needed (By the way that's how I found this forum by "googling" this)

AND THE MAIN PROBLEM:
Crank and Cam seals leaking oil, replacement of seals and possible parts as well will be necessary to stop leaks.

Which can costs up to 500$ according to them.

So I want back to the car dealer with this but he doesn't want to negotiate the price he said.
His main argument is that he's 1,500-2,000$ below the blue book and that in the area the cheapest price asked for the car by car dealers is at least 1,000$ more and with more miles, so for approximately the same it's like 1,500$ more.

But I guess that you can always negotiate a difference between the sticker price and the final price.

My best shot is that I can pay cash (or with a cashier check).

I mean a said from a few painting marks on the rear bumper and some little things on the rear seats the car is in a real good shape

What do you think about it?

PS: I checked the VIN number on Carfax and there is no problem and was only one previous owner.

 

If you don't like the price, then walk away. This is your strongest negotiating tactic.

The timing belt probably needs to be replaced, so when the front cam and crank seals are inspected, have the belt replaced at the same time. What makes your mechanic so sure that the cam and crank seals are bad? These types of oil leaks are often just a leaky valve cover or oil pan gasket (=much less $$$ and also DIY jobs).

 

Well apparently the price is good but it's just that I don't see myself buying a car without negotiating the total price "on road". it's just part of the game no?

For the up to 500 bucks, it's only if they have a lot of work to do and with the timing belt replacement. Otherwise, it can well be around 300$

 

It sounds like you think that $4500 is the price that you are willing to pay for the car. Throw the offer out there and walk if they balk at the offer. If they sense you will in the end pay the asking price, then they won't reduce the price. You must be willing to play hardball if you want to be viewed as a shrewd and serious negotiator.

 

Well the fact is that I might have found other deals searching on internet, but I would not be able to move (this car dealer is 5 minutes from my apartment) until 2 weeks, I have a lot of midterms after tomorrow.

And I'm willing to pay 5,200$ max for on the road price.

 

Okay, you have a set price. Let the negotiations begin!

 

Well Yeah, but I'm not that good at it, so if you have a few tips before I go there (I'll go there with my roommate to help me on that).

Like shall I bring cash (like I show them the money, they'll see I'm serious and that they can have it right now) or shall I negotiate and ask my bank for a cashier check?

 

1) Simply state the out the door price offer of $5,200. Respectfully mention that it is a "Take it or leave it offer". Again, you must be prepared to walk away if they don't wish to deal. Don't flinch.

2) Don't risk carrying that much cash on you. No need to become a crime victim. If they accept the offer, go to your bank and have a cashier's check made out to the dealer for the negotiated amount.

 

Ok, last question, better to do like you said in your 1) or better to negotiate like for 5,000 or 5,100 and then say ok, 5,200 will be my last price, take it or leave it?

I mean like that they will still have the feeling that they negotiated in their way compared to the price I was willing to pay, but on the other hand, They might just they no and I'll have less negotiating power no?

Thanks by the way for the advice

 

Your ideas certainly could work in the way that you mention. Nonetheless, you absolutely must decide on a maximum total price that you are willing to spend on this car and then must stick to this decision during the negotiations. My style would be to simply make the offer and then stick to it no matter how much they attempt to tire me out. But use whatever style and tactics work for you while never exceeding the maximum price that you have decided on.