Anyone have a clue where i could even start looking to find out difference in engine weights on civ's teg's.. i keep considering different swaps vs. build vs. turbo .. but i still like weight vs. hp ratio when driving as it seems like a waste to get more hp to compensate for higher lbs .. plus handling of course is affected..

 

Ok add around 50lbs on average for a turbo setup

This is engine and transmission

D series are around 250lbs
B series are around 320lbs
H series are around 360lbs
F series are around 360lbs
K series are around 340-350lbs

 

I've heard 475 pounds on several occasions for the H/F series.

 

I am talking just longblock and transmission. Not all the other hardware also needed for the engine to work in a car. I may be wrong though as they may weigh that much but I do know that at weigh in at the last NOPI event here in Bristol I was seeing all motor striped H22 EG hatchs weigh in at or slightly under the weight of turbo'd B series eg hatchs that were stripped.

 

alright.. thanks Marty.. thats about what i was figuring on diff between B and D series.. according to an article i read through one of the import mags a while back 100lb's = roughly around 17 hp gain if u can drop that weight..... so by GSR comparison 170hp vs 127 Y8.. i would only have to close a gap through engine/head/tuner work of what about 40whp on guestimate to be equal to what i would gain by doing a GSR swap.. but i would still have that lack of weight adding additional wear on the car.. torque would be the only difference that i can still see on building a D vs the swap..

sorry to keep going over this as most of you probably dont care.. but im still trying to make a decision which route to go to have a good DD and still be able to pull some good track times..everyone says turbo of course which is pretty nice and cheap but, your adding that risk of more parts failing for something like a daily driver.. meaning more maintenance and upkeep .. plus as Marty stated adding 50 lbs back onto my car.. which would be minor if u use the ratio that would be only like 8-9 hp lost on weight.. ive read through the built D article several times and this keeps making me more interested.. more so when i do start checking costs .. and seeing more and more parts available for the D and have seen for instance the link that Marty provided of www.akmee.com .. this is a little D with pretty much just headwork done that i see internal and tuned is pushing 140 at the wheels.. total cost for that with work probably 2500 or less on performance .. and that thing outperforms a stock Civic SI .. i have been trying to find more links of people who have D series built blocks with compression change as well .. if anyone knows where i could find some i would appreciate it.. i am just wondering how much of a HP gain would be had adding full headwork with lvl 2 or 3 valvetrain and compression to 10:5:1 or even 11:2:1 which seems to be some of the common ratio's i have seen for D's.. and also as Marty stated where i would want to stop as far as the build goes to not create problems with daily driving..

if its alot to read ,, oh well!! im just tired and cant sleep.. Wondering how many other people think about this kind of stuff and maybe know something i havent already found out..

insomnia is a wonderful thing



crazy.. right after writing this i was clicking through some profiles and found some backposts i missed last month covering similar interest..