I did an oil change on my Civic last night (the third in 5k miles due to previous owner abuse) and I've never considered brands/types so in depth. I bought Valvoline High Mileage but I was wondering what is the difference between reg and synthetic. And is ALL high mileage a synthetic blend? I know synthetic is finer, but I worry it will clean the engine too efficiently possibly causing leaks. Anyone have recommendations? I'm also using 5/30 and thinking of using 10/30. Car is at 100k.

 

Well I'm not sure about synthetics but I have a question that I think is related. My car leaks oil and Im sure it will be expensive to repair. I want to try an oil leak sealer but not sure which brand to go with, any recommendations. Now it goes through a quart of oil in a bout a month.

 

DO NOT USE HONEY! That's one thing I DO know about oil treatments. I think they harden/are too thick and clog up the system.

 

Indeed...that's why when you pour it in, it looks THICK like tar! They will not work no matter what they say on the bottle....They will say ANYTHING to get you to buy their product.

 

I beg to differ with you guys. But as an old retired, tired mechanic they do work if installed properly. I have used Lucas for years in my old crap. Our 86 F250 4x4 190,000 miles, 97 Chevy Blazer 161,000 miles both use Lucas & have for years. Lucas makes a stop leak that works also. I had a pitman arm seal leaking on my 86 F250 when I bought it back in the 90s. I used Lucas ATF stop leak in it for 3 years before I changed out the wore out steering box. When I got it, it was leaking a quart every few days. After adding Lucas ATF stop leak it went to using a quart every few months.
Try some Lucas Stop Leak for engines. But the way to do it is to have the engine up to operating temp. Leave it running & add. I wouldn't add a quart, I would buy a quart & add about half. Then once it is added drive your car for 30 minutes or so before you shut it off. This gets the stop leak mixed in with the oil. Once it is mixed it won't separate. The big mistake people make is adding it to a cold, turned off engine, then they don't drive it to get it mixed good with the oil.

 

But it's suppose to stop leaks...not "lessen" leaks. So it doesn't work as advertised.

It's kinda like using a power surge strip that says it'll save all your plugged-in items from shorting out during a storm....but when the storm hits(and lightning strikes) only 1/2 the items plugged in are saved.

 

It isn't going to repair the leak NO. It will help lessen it & in some cases it will stop the leak. I'm just picking numbers now, a $400 repair or a can of $4 possible stop leak? I would try the $4 fix first you can always replace the gaskets/seal or what ever. But if you leave the drain plug out or the filter off NO IT WON"T STOP THE LEAK.
I think if you read the fine print they don't claim it will stop every leak either.
All I was trying to do was help out. I use the stuff myself. As a rule I don't worry about minor leaks. If I did I would have to completely tear down my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine & reseal & gasket it. It would since being a Chevy would still leak.
There is a reason it is called FIX IN A CAN. If it worked 100% auto shops would be closing down as would parts houses & manufactures. If a can of stuff fixed everything why repair anything.

 

I will agree that this is in fact a temporary fix. My family uses Lucas in their cars (specifically their domestics/Ford). Personally I am hesitant to use Lucas. I typically use BG brand as it is a local company and they have decent guarantees BUT the Lucas is most likely a LOT thinner than those honeys. Can anyone give me more insight on the synthetic blends please?

 

i had a camaro with a rear main seal and every oil change i would add a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer and it would slow it down to a small drip almost like a seep....its is expensive tho 13 bucks a bottle