thank u supersize. idk if ur post is complete and correct, but it did give me the idea to look into it. theres some digital gauges and stuff ive been looking @, and they are out of this world expensive. something like strata or something... anywho, im sure this is much cheaper than the $1000 ones ive seen, its oem cool, and i would never have thought of it if u hadnt posted this. everybody, lets all get together and hug one day!

 

btw, its an AIM sport MXL strata... its crazy cool, but crazy 'spensive...

 

your welcome haha

 

Sorry to bump an old topic, but since this is a rather complete writeup of the wiring, I am hoping this is the best place to post my problem/question.

To start off, I am driving with a fully functional AP1 cluster for almost a year now (including ECT, Speedohealer and acurate fuel-level indicator).

Here's my issue:
By now several forums have copied the same wiring scheme, and because of the 'copy paste' they all have the same instructions on how to connect the ABS control light.
Connector D: BLUE/RED <> BLUE/RED

I am sorry to say that they all have the wrong instructions if your car has ABS (like mine).
Or I overlooked something (which I doubt).

The ABS light goes off when connected to a ground, that's true. But the ABS wiring comming from the car isn't a ground an never becomes one. So if you Civic has ABS (like mine) connecting both wires results in a ABS light that's allways on

What I did was connecting it to a ground and the light stayed off, but yesterday my car was at a garage for it's yearly MOT/APK (or whatever you call the mandatory checkup of your car in your country).

The car got a 'not approved' stamp because it has ABS and the ABS light in the cluster is not showing when turning the ignitionkey in the first position.

So I removed the cluster from the dash and checked every possible option. I even try to 'fake' a functional ABS light by connecting it to the wiring of the oil pressure, since that one has the same characteristics (light on in first position and going of when the key is going to the second position and start the enigine).

All without any luck, since the light needs a (switched?) ground and not a switched +12v.

Since cars only have switched +12v and no switched ground, I opened the original cluster and found out that the OEM civic cluster has a seperate ABS module/light:


To make a long story short........
Should I use this module to get a functional ABS light or is there anyone out there driving a '96 Civic with a fully functional ABS light is his/her AP1 cluster?

Hope to hear a solution, because I can't believe I am the only one with this problem.

 

great info! its really helping me as i do my cluster wiring although i found a few things i encountered that i thought i should point out in case anyone else is doing it

i'm doing the cluster on my 95 gsr so it applies tio the 94 - 97 dc2

Connector A

Pin 9 is supposed to be red/yellow not red/white

For the wires on Connectors A-D from the s2k pig tails that are not listed, do they not need to be conencted to anything?
As well as wires from Connectors on the integra pig tails including the 3 wires from the 3rd connector which i believe is for the srs since you didn't list it?

Input from anyone is appreciated

Thanks