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scion tc vs my civic

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Old Jun 29, 2009 | 01:03 PM
  #51  
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Hmm... I assume you've soaked the nuts in PB Blaster or something like it already.

You said you have a deep well socket. I'd say try putting about a 4" extension on the deep well, so the ratchet can clear the valve cover. Then, get a pipe or something that fits over the handle on the ratchet (or breaker bar, whatever you're using) to get a little more leverage & torque. Then, crank on it. Also, don't break the studs lol

Also, if you're using a 3/8 drive, have you tried moving up to 1/2 drive if you have the tools? And are you using a 6pt socket or a 12pt? A 12pt socket has a better chance of rounding the nuts off.
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #52  
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i have a 4'' extension, im using wd40. i have 3 diffrent size ratchet's, and the socket fits the second one, i call it medium size hole. ill try a pipe idea ill see what i ahve around.
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 01:41 PM
  #53  
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yes!! thanks the pipe way work!
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by reaper2022
Yup. Stock ignition systems are way more powerful than they need to be. Basically, if you can get traction on anything less than drag radials, you probably don't need to upgrade your ignition system.
whats even crazier reaper is on the same dyno tests the actual crap wires i.e. Duralast actually outperformed heavier gauged wires such as MSD and NGK... why I dont know... I would never waste my money, the last chart I looked at was done with 145XXX miles on the OEM wires too (the best result)... not too shabby
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #55  
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^ I'd assume it has to do with the resistance of the wire. The larger gauge wire would have less resistance, but I don't really know how that would have a bad effect on performance.

And enigma, glad to hear the pipe trick worked... it's saved my a** more than once
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #56  
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It's all about quality, material, and finish. The aftermarket wires that are ridiculously large are very poor quality. Plus the factory tune is programmed to work more efficiently with the oem size and quality wires. In the world of electronics, the circuit is only as good as it's weakest link (like a 0 gauge ground wire connected half-***, just barely touching any metal. even though the ground cable is huge, the ground itself sucks.
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #57  
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ran into another problem... iv been at this for an hour. i cant get the screw back in its hole!!! i use a flat head driver in one and and the screw in the other and push at same time to get the scew in hole and i just cant do it. i cant get the thing push to the side and get the screw in at same time... whats the deal? things real tuff to move too...


your looking at the screw thats on the side of the right shock tower.
 

Last edited by enigma34; Jun 29, 2009 at 03:15 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #58  
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The only aftermarket wires I would ever buy is the NGK wires. Not the big ones (NGK power wires), but the stock-sized ones.
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:00 PM
  #59  
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ok so i found out that using a spring puller works, but i need some one to slide the bolt in as a pull the hole over. so reaper come over and help me . lol, gess ill just wait for mom. she help me install the hood, thats what mom's are for.
 
Old Jun 29, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by enigma34
ok so i found out that using a spring puller works, but i need some one to slide the bolt in as a pull the hole over. so reaper come over and help me . lol, gess ill just wait for mom. she help me install the hood, thats what mom's are for.


This was a fial too, cant get the bolt in the hole with the puller in there....i dont even know what this screw gos to..bull****
 



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