Reaper's Mustang Project (abridged version)
Yeah, if I get my hands on an NA Miata, I'll probably try to find a factory hardtop, get the fastback kit, some nice wheels, slam it to the ground, and call it a day (After getting Corbeau seats for the mustang and throwing the Tenzos int he NA lol). If I get an NB, I'll probably forget about the hardtop and fastback... chances are I'll end up with an NA anyway (cheaper)
As for the mustang project, I just got a pm from the guy about the sway bar... it's shipping tomorrow, so it'll be on the car 4/11... it'd be on this coming weekend, but I won't be home, and I figure my apartment complex's office wouldn't appreciate me shipping a sway bar there.
Other than the sway bar, the h-pipe and cats should be done tomorrow night (Tuesday morning at the latest), the exhaust tips should be on the car Wednesday, and the grille delete will hopefully be finished Friday or Saturday.
Now I'm facing one problem... what should I get next? My options are:
1) ABS plastic sheeting (enough to do my rear seat delete and rear diffuser) ~$200
2) KYB GR2 shocks & struts (that way I can lower the car) -$180
3) Spare engine (3.8l or 4.2l, whichever I can find cheaper) ~$300-$500
Honestly, I'm leaning towards the shocks & struts or the ABS plastic... I'm more worried about getting my car where I want it before I start building an engine that, besides during transport, won't see the car for over a year
As for the mustang project, I just got a pm from the guy about the sway bar... it's shipping tomorrow, so it'll be on the car 4/11... it'd be on this coming weekend, but I won't be home, and I figure my apartment complex's office wouldn't appreciate me shipping a sway bar there.
Other than the sway bar, the h-pipe and cats should be done tomorrow night (Tuesday morning at the latest), the exhaust tips should be on the car Wednesday, and the grille delete will hopefully be finished Friday or Saturday.
Now I'm facing one problem... what should I get next? My options are:
1) ABS plastic sheeting (enough to do my rear seat delete and rear diffuser) ~$200
2) KYB GR2 shocks & struts (that way I can lower the car) -$180
3) Spare engine (3.8l or 4.2l, whichever I can find cheaper) ~$300-$500
Honestly, I'm leaning towards the shocks & struts or the ABS plastic... I'm more worried about getting my car where I want it before I start building an engine that, besides during transport, won't see the car for over a year
Last edited by reaper2022; Mar 29, 2009 at 07:29 PM.
That's what I'm leaning towards... A mustang with a rear diffuser would look weird at stock height, but a lowered mustang would look fine without a rear diffuser.
Anyway, in a little bit here I'll start working on the h-pipe. Just a warning, it's going to look very ghetto until it's welded. 8 exhaust clamps in a 4 sqft area? Oh yeah. And thanks to Advance Auto Parts/Autozone's fine selections of parts, I ended up getting a universal "2.5in ID" tailpipe (quotations because it's actually 2.5" OD). I hate cheap exhaust parts... sizes are never right and pieces never match up. Anyway, like I said, I'm going to start working on it in probably about a half hour here... pics when I'm finished (1 hour with no complications... so it'll more than likely take about 3 hours to do).
And yes, the H-pipe is going to be welded... I just need to get the car back up to blairsville before I can have it welded. Also, hearing the car open-header... I think I'm going to do cut-outs this summer
... s**t sounds mean
Anyway, in a little bit here I'll start working on the h-pipe. Just a warning, it's going to look very ghetto until it's welded. 8 exhaust clamps in a 4 sqft area? Oh yeah. And thanks to Advance Auto Parts/Autozone's fine selections of parts, I ended up getting a universal "2.5in ID" tailpipe (quotations because it's actually 2.5" OD). I hate cheap exhaust parts... sizes are never right and pieces never match up. Anyway, like I said, I'm going to start working on it in probably about a half hour here... pics when I'm finished (1 hour with no complications... so it'll more than likely take about 3 hours to do).
And yes, the H-pipe is going to be welded... I just need to get the car back up to blairsville before I can have it welded. Also, hearing the car open-header... I think I'm going to do cut-outs this summer
... s**t sounds mean
So the h-pipe is finished and on the car... and now the car isn't running right. It's extremely shaky, but smooths out at higher rpms... I'm thinking an ignition problem since the engine sounds uneven like it's not getting spark on all cylinders. I pulled one of the plugs when I installed the headers and it wasn't in the greatest condition. Right now, I plan on limping the car up to blairsville wednesday (hopefully it makes it lol) and I'll stop at advance auto parts and get new plug wires and plugs... hopefully that solves this issue.
Anyway, here's pics of the most ghetto h-pipe you'll ever see:

The original h-pipe setup

The section I needed

Ghetto-fied

In place it doesn't look so terrible lol

Another under-car shot

From the front
Anyway, here's pics of the most ghetto h-pipe you'll ever see:

The original h-pipe setup

The section I needed

Ghetto-fied

In place it doesn't look so terrible lol

Another under-car shot

From the front
if you dont like to use those cheap @ss crimping clamps then go to napa autoparts and buy some BAND CLAMPS! they seal great and dont look to bad either....

and ya i had to use 2 different types on my truck
the band clamp and then the cheap @ss crimp clamps.... i forgot to ask the muffler shop to weld that joints. but o well eventually ill pay them for a quick weld job on it. i just want to keep my band clamps on so if i even decide to swap back to stock i can easily put it back on.

and ya i had to use 2 different types on my truck
the band clamp and then the cheap @ss crimp clamps.... i forgot to ask the muffler shop to weld that joints. but o well eventually ill pay them for a quick weld job on it. i just want to keep my band clamps on so if i even decide to swap back to stock i can easily put it back on.


