panzy i tint windows its not that hard when on a car and jp makes a good point too your method is flawed kthxby

 

Josh, what do I do for a living again? Pulling a window out is easy

Besides, if I have an extra set of windows, I can either sell them for close to or the same amount I paid for the other windows, or I can keep them and tint them a little lighter in case I get pulled over for tint (unlikely at 20%, but still plausible). It'd take a half hour after work one day to pull my old windows out and put new ones in, not to mention the tint could dry in my 74-degree apartment for a few days as opposed to a car sitting in 20-40 degree weather.

And to clarify, I'm only talking about the door glass; my quarter windows are something like 10"sq and have a nice black outline; I think I can tint them in the car without worrying about how it'll look. The windshield and rear glass are both staying clear; the windshield for obvious reasons (legal ones), and with tinted tails, I have a hard enough time seeing ish when I'm backing up, I don't need to make it harder for myself. Although if the mustang ever gets retired to show/sunday driving duty, I might get the windshield done in about 50% and the rear glass to match the sides

 

I didn't think about the whole getting pulled over thing that's a good idea but I'd still get the rear one tinted I've seen it done without the rear and it just looks goofy and for the front windshield in MI you can tint the top 4in legally I've got about 9in on the outsides and 6in in the middle of the front window so it has a very slight arch and I get complements all the time

 

I don't know about the rear; I don't trust myself to tint that large of a piece of glass without effing it up, and if I take it to a shop I might as well have them do all the windows while I'm at it.

But I know what you're talking about with the tint strip... it definitely looks good and I love being in cars with them, but I have a dot-matrix pattern with the Mustang logo at the top of my windshield, so I'd either have to have it tinted over or scrape it off, so I don't know.

 

have a shop do the rear and do the rest yourself i won't do rear windows and im pretty experienced, as far as the logo on the top good luck scraping it off if your talking about what i think you are you could always try tinting over it for s&g's

 

Haha, might be able to do it with a heat gun and a serious squeegee lol

Anyway, it occurred to me that my fog lights flash with the corners when I hit the "lock" button on my key fob... it looks sexy as hell. I might just have to get my hands on a relay and wire them to the corner lights permanently

I'll be ordering the relay and relay harness from oznium after I get back from PA next sunday; no point in ordering them now since I won't even be in the state between next wednesday and sunday. After that, I'm going to wait until after my first student loan payment in January to see where I'm at financially; if I have the money left over, I'll be ordering my C/C plates.

*edit: thinking about it, having female connectors exposed to the elements might not be the best idea; looks like I might be using the factory harness and switch after all... that being the case, I'll be ordering the harness and whatnot after I get back from PA. Either way, we'll see.

 

connectors exposed problem..... what you think electrical tape was made for?
you dont need a relay harness just a relay, 4-6 spade female terminals, a inline fuse holder, preferably water proof type, 2 ring terminals, and some wire, then maybe another crimp connection or what not to go to your fog lights. its really easy! just once everythings hooked up test em out make sure it all works correctly then go to town with wrapping the relays wires and wire bunch afew inches down and just to make it purty some dull black factory style wire loom over your wires
you can go get everything you need at walmart, or autozone, or radio shack tonight.

 

Not a huge fan of the idea of electrical tape being the only thing keeping my connectors from corroding, though. I mean, I know it's waterproof when used properly, but it's just the idea of it. Not to mention with the OEM harness and switch, I'll be able to run just parking lights for photoshoots and for when I'm actually just parked with the lights on (yes, I do that occasionally), and also, having one empty switch slot drives me nuts. I think I'll probably just spring for the OEM harness.

 

you could heat shrink them

 

wow, I'm updating this? Wait, that means something's going to be done to the car soon

The black bumper is finally getting to me... The guy that does most of the paint work for the dealership (he's not actually an employee, just contracted) was painting a bumper in the lower shop (we have the main shop with 10 bays attached to the showroom and a second shop with the alignment rack, drive-on lift, and 2 2-post lifts) and I went down and talked to him. $125 to paint the bumper red (and the dude does good work. The bumper he was working on yesterday was sanded down to the plastic and primered when I went down there. Today, you couldn't tell the bumper didn't have the factory paint) and he said he could do it over a weekend if I took the bumper off and gave it to him on a friday (which works for me instead of having my car out of commission for a day or two). So by the end of the month, my car should have a matching bumper

[/giant paragraph]

Also, something occurred to me last week. If another load is added to a series circuit, voltage throughout the circuit remains the same and the voltage drops across the circuit split up the voltage according to resistance. My ghetto wiring isn't pulling more voltage than the 12v it was designed for; each light is only getting ~6v. I still plan on putting the factory harness in (dim foglights are pointless), but I was just thinking about it while I was bored.