My civic just died on the highway. No warning lights, no weird sounds.

It just shut off, I was able to coast to the shoulder. When I go to start it, it just "turns", but doesn't start...sorry guys, I'm a newbie chick.

I have a friend who is willing to help, but where should he start?

Would low oil cause a safety something to come on and prevent it from starting?

Civic has 388, 000kms on it.

Idea? Thoughts?

 

Is the engine extremely low on oil?

Does the fuel pump prime (buzzing/humming noise) for 2 seconds when the key is turned from off to ON(II)?

Also check for spark at the plugs. Click Spark link in my signature. You'll need a spare spark plug ($2-3) and buddy for this test.

 

Ok, there is no spark. Spark fuse is fine, and it smells like gas under the hood when I go to try and start it. Oil level is perfect.

I also checked the ignition coil fuse, it's ok.

 

Have an auto parts store test the ICM.

Check whether the timing belt snapped.

Does the fuel pump prime?

 

Fuel pump primes. Timing belt is good. I have it in the driveway right now, so I don't want to tow it anywhere until the basics are covered.

He's checking the distributor now.

 

Blown coil or bad ignition switch is more common than faulty ICM (which does also happen). Check that the cam and distributor actually rotate when cranking the engine. Try to draw sparks from the coil output to a grounded test wire cranking with the distributor cap off. Should be powerful blue sparks that can jump more than 3/4 inch. Weak yellow sparks, replace coil.

 

check the harness ground to the bolt on the thermostat an see if it corroded and fell off

 

Failed igniter units and ICMs are not uncommon and are often associated with an engine stall.

Make sure to test installed dash fuse 9 with a test light or multimeter. Both top test tabs should have battery voltage to body ground with the key in ON(II). Alternatively, you can check for voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM.

How did you test the coil? Did you resistance test it? Note that you need to subtract the internal resistance of the multimeter (touch both probes together) from the primary winding resistance reading to get an accurate measurement.

 

Here's another vote for a likely blown coil, if not blown ignitor. I carry a spare of each in my trunk after my hondas hit 100,000 mi.

 

Well I caved and took it into a shop, and they are saying it's the distributor...not too sure how they know this though.