'94 DX Auto 4 Door - Brake Line Leak
#1
'94 DX Auto 4 Door - Brake Line Leak
So...my Brake light has been on for a couple months. I thought nothing of it, though it was a bad sensor or something with the E-Brake. I thought the light came on when I started to use the E-brake.
Well, Wednesday of last week I got in the car and was about to leave, when I noticed there was very very little brake pressure. Flooring the brake abrubtly did almost nothing. I drove it to Walmart, bought brake fluid, filled it up, light went away. All is fine and dandy. Then it does it again. Rinse repeat. Same thing.
Well come to find out I have a leak in my brake lines somewhere. I have located the leak - the passenger front tire. Not sure what it is called but I have pics of where the leak is located.
and
Thoughts? Thanks.
Well, Wednesday of last week I got in the car and was about to leave, when I noticed there was very very little brake pressure. Flooring the brake abrubtly did almost nothing. I drove it to Walmart, bought brake fluid, filled it up, light went away. All is fine and dandy. Then it does it again. Rinse repeat. Same thing.
Well come to find out I have a leak in my brake lines somewhere. I have located the leak - the passenger front tire. Not sure what it is called but I have pics of where the leak is located.
and
Thoughts? Thanks.
#4
Looked at Autozone.com and only thing I can find is this...
Brakeware/Brake Hose - Front (78043) | 1994 Honda Civic DX 4 Cylinders 1.5L MFI SOHC | AutoZone.com
That doesn't look like the original part. Am I missing something?
Brakeware/Brake Hose - Front (78043) | 1994 Honda Civic DX 4 Cylinders 1.5L MFI SOHC | AutoZone.com
That doesn't look like the original part. Am I missing something?
#7
Use a flare-nut wrench on the top connection. It'ts going to be tight, and an ordinary end wrench is almost certain to round off the nut. Be sure to remove both old copper washers, and use the provided new ones on the bottom connection. Break everything loose first then replace the hose quickly before all the brake fluid runs out. If you don't let the reservoir run dry you may be able to just bleed the one wheel.
#8
Well we replaced the hose. Got it on there tight. Bled that wheel. No leaks over there and all seemed right. Started car and brakes weren't as hard as they should be so we bled all 4 and the master cylinder.
Well, brakes still aren't as hard as they should be. We think there is a small leak on front driver side now and also are thinking the master cylinder is bad. Thoughts?
Well, brakes still aren't as hard as they should be. We think there is a small leak on front driver side now and also are thinking the master cylinder is bad. Thoughts?
#9
Repair all leaks. Disconnecting the master cylinder after it is installed will let air into the lines on the car, and is thus not recommended. You have to bleed all 4 wheels again after that. There is a specific sequence for the order to bleed at the wheels, but I don't remember it.
A (moderately) bad master cylinder will usually stop the car OK, but with continued pressure on the brake pedal it will sink to the floor. That is also what happens with a leaky hose, etc-- but with an internal leak in the master cylinder no fluid will be lost.
A (moderately) bad master cylinder will usually stop the car OK, but with continued pressure on the brake pedal it will sink to the floor. That is also what happens with a leaky hose, etc-- but with an internal leak in the master cylinder no fluid will be lost.
Last edited by mk378; 05-16-2012 at 06:55 AM.
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