Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

ok, so I read up on the axel replacement DIY post by civicexracer. I start the project and everything's fine until I get to the lower ball joint nut part. I get the nut off then realize that the ball joint stud is not going to come out just by pulling up on the hub. Now, I either need to separate the lower control arm from the steering knuckle which requires a ball joint separator tool or does he have me loosening/removing the lower ball joint nut for no reason. Which is it?? I find it hard to believe he would omit that part of the process and not include the ball joint separator tool from the "tools required" list. So, can the axel be removed w/out separating the control arm from the knuckle or do I need to find the ball separator tool? I don't want to use a pickle fork because I don't want to damage the boot on the ball joint. Local parts places don't seem to carry the particular press that would do the job, only the install tool. I may be able to use a jaw type puller...
Am I the victim of a pretty bad joke?? The Haynes manual indicates I need to separate the control arm from the knuckle.
I'd like some feedback from people that have done this if possible.
I'm working on a '97 Civic DX w/auto trans.
Thanks! Dave

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

Use the gear puller type to push up on the shaft that the nut was on. There is a tool specifically made to do this, it has a fork that goes on the control arm and a jack screw pushing up on the ball joint shank. You can also hit things with a hammer. Sometimes they are really stuck though.

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

When I replaced my CV it just took a sledge and a metal stick (don't know the word) to pop almost anything out

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

You have to separate the lower control arm, but you do not need a ball joint tool. Wail on it with a sledgehammer until it pops, then use a big prybar to separate it.

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

When I replaced both axles on my 97 DX, I used either the Tie Rod End Puller or the Pitman Arm Puller (don't remember which one) shown here:

http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...pecialized.htm

The tool made the job of popping out the ball joints reasonably easy; however, be sure to install a 12-mm hex nut at the end of the threaded section of the ball joint pin to protect it from damage by the tool.

I borrowed the tool through AutoZone's Tool Loan program, which is free. You just leave a deposit equal to the tool's value. Your money is refunded when you return the tool.

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

no ur not a victim of a bad joke...i did not mention a seperator because in most cases, u dont really need one. a large enough hammer with enough force on the lower control arm(right where the ball joint meets) will easily separate them. sometimes it'll"pop" then u need to kinda wiggle it out with little forceand sometimes it'll completely break loose and u'll be able to pull the joint off the arm with ease.i've done it a few times myself not only on my car but on other cars, aswell as seen it done by many other technicians in the field.

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

When i was replacing mine, I couldn't get the ball join to pop out no matter how hard I hit the damn thing lol. I got scared that Imight break it, that instead I had to take the whole LCA off and just let it hang from the ball joint while I replaced the axle.[&:]

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

Thanks everyone for clearing that up. I just wanted to make sure I do it right and wasn't missing something. I'll get a jaw type puller and go that route. I banged it w/a hammer but it didn't budge and with my luck I'll ruin the ball joint stud and make life worse.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Dave

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

You don't hit the ball joint stud with the hammer! you hit the control arm, NEXT to the ball joint.

RE: Axel Replacement Question from DIY Forum
 

If it's and absolute must, because that didn't work... ...thread the castle nut on the ball joint stud and hit the castle nut.