A/C Light not even coming on I come here for help
My ac light isnt coming on. I just vaccumed the system and tried to recharge it. But my fan or compressor wouldnt engage. I disconnected all the relays and switches for the ac and put them back to no avail (with the engine running). Now my ac button light isnt coming on nor is the engine revving up when I press it it did before.[/align]
The fuse isnt blown in the under hood.[/align][/align]I just want cold air on my ***** and face in this 105 F weather[/align][/align][/align][/align]
You need to charge up to at least 50 psi before the compressor will engage. It is good practice to charge as much as you can with the engine off, then start the compressor to pull in the final amount.
The later models (I think starting in 2001) have an electronic control panel with some self-diagnostic capability. Also on those later models the thermal switch on the compressor tends to fail a lot. Test it for continuity, should be zero ohms when cold.
The later models (I think starting in 2001) have an electronic control panel with some self-diagnostic capability. Also on those later models the thermal switch on the compressor tends to fail a lot. Test it for continuity, should be zero ohms when cold.
The A/C circuit diagram for 5th generation Civics indicates that the A/C button should light even if the pressure and thermo switches are open, assuming that fuse 13 and the A/C button light bulb are good:
So it's a '95. As the diagram shows, the light doesn't really depend on anything else other than power from fuse 13 and grounding thru the fan switch. See if you have power on the black/yellow (from fuse 13) and white (from underhood fuse box) wires at the relays.
My '95 had a 3 wire thermo sensor instead of a 2-wire switch but the concept is the same. The A/C button starts by grounding the circuit, then if the temperature and pressure are OK the fan relay pulls in and also the ground goes to the ECU which idles up the engine and after a short delay, engages the compressor.
Edit: Also DO NOT get tempted to hotwire the compressor on, if you do this without the condenser fan running, the high side pressure will go up within seconds to a dangerous level and the hose or relief valve will blow out.
My '95 had a 3 wire thermo sensor instead of a 2-wire switch but the concept is the same. The A/C button starts by grounding the circuit, then if the temperature and pressure are OK the fan relay pulls in and also the ground goes to the ECU which idles up the engine and after a short delay, engages the compressor.
Edit: Also DO NOT get tempted to hotwire the compressor on, if you do this without the condenser fan running, the high side pressure will go up within seconds to a dangerous level and the hose or relief valve will blow out.
Check whether fuse 13 and the A/C switch is getting battery power when the ignition switch is turned to ON. If you have power at both locations, then the problem could be:
1) A bad A/C switch on the dash.
2) A burned out A/C switch bulb (+ separate A/C problem)
3) A broken wire between the A/C switch and fan switch
4) A broken/disconnected ground wire from the fan switch (in this case, fan also wouldn't work).
1) A bad A/C switch on the dash.
2) A burned out A/C switch bulb (+ separate A/C problem)
3) A broken wire between the A/C switch and fan switch
4) A broken/disconnected ground wire from the fan switch (in this case, fan also wouldn't work).


