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-   -   A/C not working - please advise (https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/mechanical-problems-technical-chat-8/c-not-working-please-advise-83089/)

yasen May 27, 2010 08:22 AM

A/C not working - please advise
 
Hi All civic DIY gurus......
I am having a hard time fixing my Civic 2004 sedan A/C and I am looking for someone’s help and advice.
The problem is! I did turn my A/C on and figured out that there is no difference in air temperature; it is not getting any colder. Did open my hood and found that the condenser fan not spinning. OK, did check if there are any fuses blown (did check all of them) and found fuse #1 in under hood box blown....I did put a new fuse but this fan is still not working. Fine!!! So, the blower works as I am getting air through blow holes when A/C is ON, compressor not spinning, condenser fan not spinning. I was thinking maybe it is some electrical problem!!! So, I did check A/C wire harness and found out a small difference between my harness configuration and whatever is in Honda Documentation. Basically, the A/C wire harness should have a ground connection in the place when it goes around condenser fan (just above it)....but somehow my harness doesn’t have this connection at all. I did trace my harness and it goes from compressor and receiver into cable interface, than this interface merges with condenser fan cables ....and then this big harness goes all the way around merging with some other cable interfaces, goes under fuse box.....etc. BTW, condenser fan doesn't ground connection connected to the car body as well, it has a black cable but it goes inside of the harness as I have described before.
Is there any way to find out what is going on? I know that I can test condenser fan by connecting it's blue cable to the battery's "+" and black to car ground, right?

mk378 May 27, 2010 09:07 AM

Did the new fuse blow? If so, compressor or fan is likely shorted. Is the fan free to spin turning it by hand?

RonJ May 27, 2010 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by mk378 (Post 716130)
Did the new fuse blow?

Exactly.

yasen May 27, 2010 06:08 PM


Originally Posted by mk378 (Post 716130)
Did the new fuse blow? If so, compressor or fan is likely shorted. Is the fan free to spin turning it by hand?

Hi, Thank you for your reply
I did some testing. No, fuse is fine all the time, I did event try to switch this fuse with another from the under hood box. I did test conderser fan just by connecting it's black wire to the ground and another wire to the "+" battery and it is spinning.
Thanks

mk378 May 27, 2010 07:11 PM

Unplug the pressure switch on the receiver drier and check it for continuity. If open it's probably because all the refrigerant has leaked out. If that's OK, check the temperature switch on the compressor, it should also be closed circuit.

yasen May 28, 2010 07:55 AM


Originally Posted by mk378 (Post 716213)
Unplug the pressure switch on the receiver drier and check it for continuity. If open it's probably because all the refrigerant has leaked out. If that's OK, check the temperature switch on the compressor, it should also be closed circuit.

I know where receiver is and I believe that the pressure switch is the place where a/s wire harness prugs in, right? I did check it, the connection harness-receiver is fine but I dont understand what do you mean by "open".
I did spend some time researching what could be a possible reason and I lot of people seaying that the very common reason for civics to have this problem is compressor thermal protector, what do you think?

mk378 May 28, 2010 08:07 AM

Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.

yasen May 28, 2010 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by mk378 (Post 716262)
Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.

Sure, no problem. I will go to Home Depot today to get a tester, will keep you up to date with my results. Thanks.

yasen May 30, 2010 08:17 PM


Originally Posted by mk378 (Post 716262)
Unplug the harness from the switch then use an ohm meter to measure the resistance between the two pins on the switch (touch one probe to each pin). It should be near zero ohms (a closed circuit). If you get the same reading as with the meter leads not connected to anything (usually a single "1" on the screen), the switch is open.

Hm, I don't think I can do it. The problem is that (as I said im my original thread), switches from compressor, condenser fan and pressure thing are merget together and then they go around my hood , so there is no another swithch so I can mesure anything between two points

mk378 May 31, 2010 02:23 PM

Unplug the harness from the switch....

You are testing the switch itself, not the harness. They all unplug.


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