civic won't start?!?!?
If when you turn the key as you would normally start the car and the radio does work but the car just doesn't start, the problem is the starter. I have a similar problem with my car. At first I didn't know what the problem was and ended up buying a new battery for no reason.
There's a simple fix to this: tap the starter with a long metal rod (like the lever rod thing from the jack) a few times. Then start your car and it should work now.
There's a simple fix to this: tap the starter with a long metal rod (like the lever rod thing from the jack) a few times. Then start your car and it should work now.
Last edited by stan24; Nov 23, 2011 at 09:12 PM.
Ok...I got a new starter and installed it. Now the car will turn over when I try to start it, but no go. It seems the starter was part of the problem. Maybe it is from sitting for a couple weeks, but I tried it a couple of times and no start. However, the fact that it is now turning over seems like a move in the right direction.
Well, I think it could be:
1. The timing belt might be off
97 Civic EX won't start - Honda-Tech
2. Or faulty distributor
Cranks all day, but won't start.....HELP! - Honda Civic Forum
I'm sure you could find more possible problems with a google search.
97 civic won't start - Google Search
1. The timing belt might be off
97 Civic EX won't start - Honda-Tech
2. Or faulty distributor
Cranks all day, but won't start.....HELP! - Honda Civic Forum
I'm sure you could find more possible problems with a google search.
97 civic won't start - Google Search
sometimes i had to push up with my knee very hard a bunch of times and smack my knee against the bottom of the steering column on my friends 97 civic cause it would not turn over or anything just what your explaining.
try it several tims turn the key while pushing up on the steering clumn with your knee and jam your knee into it also, no joke worked for him and hasent had the problem sence a year ago
try it several tims turn the key while pushing up on the steering clumn with your knee and jam your knee into it also, no joke worked for him and hasent had the problem sence a year ago
My wife has a 2000 Civic EX, which is very similar to the 1997 if I am not mistaken. I am having the same problem. It ran fine on Sunday when I moved the car twice, but didn't drive far. It wouldn't start Monday morning. No work was being done on it.
Is it possible that the distributor or timing could go bad between Sunday afternoon and Monday morning with the car not being driven or worked on?
I have replaced the starter, tried jumping it (no luck), checked for spark (yes), and it appears to be getting fuel, though it's hard to tell. The fuel pump fuse is good and that circuit gets 12v when the key is on. I believe I hear it spooling up.
I don't hear the death throws of an engine with bent valves, so I don't think the timing belt is broken, though it is due for replacement (car has 179,000 miles, first replacement at 90k).
We likely have similar problems. I was thinking about replacing the cap and rotor this afternoon since they're cheap. I could put a distributor in it, but I'd like to hold off on spending that money if it's not the issue.
I checked spark on one cylinder using a neon test light, and it was firing.
The car has no modifications, and the last work done on it was when I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover/spark plug tube gaskets about six months ago.
I've heard others say crank position sensor. How can this be checked?
I also checked the Battery, Ignition, and FI/EM fuses. All good.
Is it possible that the distributor or timing could go bad between Sunday afternoon and Monday morning with the car not being driven or worked on?
I have replaced the starter, tried jumping it (no luck), checked for spark (yes), and it appears to be getting fuel, though it's hard to tell. The fuel pump fuse is good and that circuit gets 12v when the key is on. I believe I hear it spooling up.
I don't hear the death throws of an engine with bent valves, so I don't think the timing belt is broken, though it is due for replacement (car has 179,000 miles, first replacement at 90k).
We likely have similar problems. I was thinking about replacing the cap and rotor this afternoon since they're cheap. I could put a distributor in it, but I'd like to hold off on spending that money if it's not the issue.
I checked spark on one cylinder using a neon test light, and it was firing.
The car has no modifications, and the last work done on it was when I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover/spark plug tube gaskets about six months ago.
I've heard others say crank position sensor. How can this be checked?
I also checked the Battery, Ignition, and FI/EM fuses. All good.
My wife has a 2000 Civic EX, which is very similar to the 1997 if I am not mistaken. I am having the same problem. It ran fine on Sunday when I moved the car twice, but didn't drive far. It wouldn't start Monday morning. No work was being done on it.
Is it possible that the distributor or timing could go bad between Sunday afternoon and Monday morning with the car not being driven or worked on?
I have replaced the starter, tried jumping it (no luck), checked for spark (yes), and it appears to be getting fuel, though it's hard to tell. The fuel pump fuse is good and that circuit gets 12v when the key is on. I believe I hear it spooling up.
I don't hear the death throws of an engine with bent valves, so I don't think the timing belt is broken, though it is due for replacement (car has 179,000 miles, first replacement at 90k).
We likely have similar problems. I was thinking about replacing the cap and rotor this afternoon since they're cheap. I could put a distributor in it, but I'd like to hold off on spending that money if it's not the issue.
I checked spark on one cylinder using a neon test light, and it was firing.
The car has no modifications, and the last work done on it was when I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover/spark plug tube gaskets about six months ago.
I've heard others say crank position sensor. How can this be checked?
I also checked the Battery, Ignition, and FI/EM fuses. All good.
Is it possible that the distributor or timing could go bad between Sunday afternoon and Monday morning with the car not being driven or worked on?
I have replaced the starter, tried jumping it (no luck), checked for spark (yes), and it appears to be getting fuel, though it's hard to tell. The fuel pump fuse is good and that circuit gets 12v when the key is on. I believe I hear it spooling up.
I don't hear the death throws of an engine with bent valves, so I don't think the timing belt is broken, though it is due for replacement (car has 179,000 miles, first replacement at 90k).
We likely have similar problems. I was thinking about replacing the cap and rotor this afternoon since they're cheap. I could put a distributor in it, but I'd like to hold off on spending that money if it's not the issue.
I checked spark on one cylinder using a neon test light, and it was firing.
The car has no modifications, and the last work done on it was when I replaced the spark plugs and the valve cover/spark plug tube gaskets about six months ago.
I've heard others say crank position sensor. How can this be checked?
I also checked the Battery, Ignition, and FI/EM fuses. All good.
next time make your own thread so you dont hijack someone elses.
what color is the spark?
I didn't look at the color of the spark. I just verified that the test lamp was lighting at regular intervals.
Like 94 said, you could have a blown coil making weak sparks. Disconnect one of the wires and put a spare plug in it, hold the plug on ground and check for bright white sparks. Little orange sparks will not fire the engine.
The sensor on the crank of a 2000 does not drive the timing. All the critical sensors are inside the distributor.
The sensor on the crank of a 2000 does not drive the timing. All the critical sensors are inside the distributor.
I replaced the cap and rotor and it started up. It struggled at first, probably because it was flooded from prior attempts, but it caught after a lot of cranking. It's running a little rough at idle because I disconnected the battery during the starter replacement. As soon as the computer relearns in a day or so, that will hopefully clear up. It did the same thing for a few days after the timing belt was replaced.
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