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Complete NOOB need help!!!

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2013, 12:29 PM
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Default Complete NOOB need help!!!

Complete NOOB need some help.....
OK I have 97 civic lx 4 door sedan. I know very little about civics. This car is a daily driver to and from work, I don't have plans of engine swapping or upgrading for more power, I put all that time in money into my 97 ford diesel. Beside that I am pretty mechanical though, I need some help with a few engine codes. I went today to get a NC inspection and found out my CEL wasn't coming on (when you turn the key to the on position), so quick search of this forum I found it could be the bulb. I got home and pulled out the instrument cluster and the bulb was burnt, put one from another spot in there to test. Doing this I now find that my CEL is on, so I had advance auto run the codes and it came back with 8 HOLY CRAP!!!!!
P0122
P0113
P1509
P0135
P0141
P0301
P0303
P1300

I have searched and I know what they all mean. My question is where do I start? And do any of these codes deal with each other, meaning if I fix one thing it will fix a few codes.

The only thing I have done to the car since I bought was drop the tranny put in a new clutch, throw out bearing. New axels and rotors and brakes. I also a fluciating idle, I have removed the IACV and clean with no help.

Where is the best place to start?

the car is a 97 civic lx d16y7.
 

Last edited by Spazzyt5; 01-27-2013 at 12:37 PM.
  #2  
Old 01-27-2013, 01:45 PM
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The 300 codes are random miss fires, the 122 is TSP low voltage, 113 is IAT high voltage.
That is the best I can do for you.
 
  #3  
Old 01-27-2013, 02:45 PM
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135 and 141 at the same time really suggest a fuse 15 problem. That will throw lots of codes.
 
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
135 and 141 at the same time really suggest a fuse 15 problem. That will throw lots of codes.
Where can I find a fuse layout for the u dee hood and in cab fuses? I have no idea where 15 fuse is. Thanks
 
  #5  
Old 01-27-2013, 03:05 PM
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#15 is in the cab. Search here for fuse 15 problem there is a lot about it. It's a common bug especially with 96 and 97 models. The wires behind the engine short out and blow the fuse, which disables several sensors.
 
  #6  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:57 PM
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The 15 fuse looked good but I went ahead anyway and replaced it to be safe, I also went ahead last night and replaced the spark plugs distributor cap and rotor, no wires due to the fact the were only a few months old bought by PO. Pulled the 7.5a fuse under the hood to reset the computer. Went to work this morning I have about a 20 mile drive one way, cel still on ordered a IAT from advance went there to pick up part and had them rescan, I now only throw one code p0135. So I fixed something. I found it weird so I stopped by another advance on the way home ( I pass three) and had another scan done, now I'm throwing p0135, and p0155. So are my 02 sensors (both) shot?


Side note...the car does run smother and accelerates better.
 
  #7  
Old 01-28-2013, 05:15 PM
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P0155 should never occur on a Civic, as there is only one sensor bank. (Bank 2 sensors are usually for V6 or V8 engines that have a sensor on each side's manifold). For the P0135, unplug the first O2 sensor (closest to the engine) and measure the resistance between the two wires that are the same color (typically black, or they may be white). That is the heater circuit. It should be about 10 to 40 ohms. If it's open circuit, the sensor is bad, replace it.
 
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mk378
P0155 should never occur on a Civic, as there is only one sensor bank. (Bank 2 sensors are usually for V6 or V8 engines that have a sensor on each side's manifold). For the P0135, unplug the first O2 sensor (closest to the engine) and measure the resistance between the two wires that are the same color (typically black, or they may be white). That is the heater circuit. It should be about 10 to 40 ohms. If it's open circuit, the sensor is bad, replace it.
Do I do this with the the engine on or off or with the key in the ON position
 
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Old 01-29-2013, 03:56 AM
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Resistance checks are done with the power off. The key should be off. The engine should also be cold, since the wrong voltages on a hot O2 sensor can damage it.
 
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
Resistance checks are done with the power off. The key should be off. The engine should also be cold, since the wrong voltages on a hot O2 sensor can damage it.

Ok I am showing how dumb I really am....I have searched for a write on how to test the o2 sensor. I just bought a multimeter and have no idea how the work exactly I can test battery voltage that is it. Can someone please help me with a detailed way to test o2....thanks
 
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