Got a 92 Civic LX with 228,000 miles.

The Civic been having issues starting lately(last couple weeks), 1st week it would have a long-normal crank but would start.

2nd week it would have the same crank but I would have to crank again & again to get it to start.

Then finally a couple nights ago it just cranks and cranks..and nothing! I had to get a jump-start and it starts just fine.
Got a new battery..starts up fine(no long cranks).

Then next day..don't wanna start(having long-normal cranks again). I have had NO ISSUES while driving it(no dim lights, no engine shutting off).

I tried to google this issue, it comes up with issues about timing belts/ fuel/ Main Relay. But how would a jump-start temporary solve any of those issues?
I don't believe it would.

Can anyone help me out here? I don't know what the next step is from here.

BTW...yes I do hear the Fuel Pump prime on the II Key. No CELs.

 

Take it to the parts store and have them do an in car charging system test. Could be a short in the fusable link?(do Hondas have those)
Could be an issue with alternator, or you have a short that is draining the battery.
Could be other things but that is a free way to check.

 

*Update*

Unable to get my car started(so unable to get to Autozone to test charging system)..even with a jump, it just cranks and cranks(at normal rate).
It's missing something..so I checked all the fuses(underhood and under dash), and all are good.
Checked to see if it was getting fuel, I can hear the Fuel Pump prime every single time, and I loosen the screw on the fuel filter..fuel came out.

I'm sensing it could be the Alternator, because last week I tighten the belt to it, and it started up just fine...now it won't start even with the belt as tight as it is.
BUT my car lights or anything isn't dimming or getting weaker.
Checked Timing Belt a few days ago..still in good condition(no cracks or corrosion).

Starter maybe?

Gonna check for spark at the Plugs next......

 

*Update*

Ok..Checked for spark at all 4 plugs...nothing!
Took off the Dizzy Cap, and there was slight rust on the Dizzy cover button(that thing in the middle/inside).
Cleaned the Negative and Positive connections on the coil(screws were rusty), then cleaned the connection on Themo Grounding(just in case).

Checked the Coil for spark..only get an weak orange spark. I thought that was suppose to only happen at the Plugs..or am I wrong?

Connected a testing light to the NEGATIVE side of the battery and tested the NEGATIVE side of the Coil(I don't know if I did this right..Youtube video said to do it this way). Testing Light doesn't blink/flicker when cranking.

THEN..I connected the testing light the POSITIVE SIDE of the Battery and to the Negative side of the Coil...doesn't blink/flicker.

I'm trying to decide if it's the ICM or the Coil...I'm suspecting the Coil more than the ICM..I don't wanna buy BOTH and waste money..I just got the Whole Dizzy no more than 5 months ago.

Alittle advice and suggestions would help..if any.

Thank you In Advance!

 

Weak yellow spark is almost certainly a bad coil.

 

Nevermind....

When I cleaned off the Themo ground I forgot to reconnect it..therefore giving me a weak spark from the coil.
Reconnected the ground..cranked it...Strong Spark(from Coil).

Replaced Rotor and Distributor Cap...problem solved.
Thank you for your help guys!

 

Having a NO-START issue again...this is just after driving the car for 1 DAY.
It just cranks....
No Spark at the Coil this time for some odd reason(even tho it was there the day before).
Testing light not blinking when testing the coil(wire from the ICM).
Themo ground and Valve Cover Ground is good and clean.

I'm not understanding what's going...But it seems to go DEEPER than just the Dizzy.
So what's next?

 

You should have battery voltage to ground from both coil wires with the key on and at "III" (crank).

Does CEL cycle on and off when you turn key and don't crank?

If that works, hold the key and crank steady for about 20 seconds, if CEL comes on during that process it's probably a distributor sensor, check the code.

Don't let the coil fire into open circuit, it will burn out, either put the cap back on or have someone holding the grounded test wire near it whenever cranking.

 

I have battery voltage from BOTH wires on the coil when on II and III(crank).

CEL does come on after about 10 seconds of cranking..then goes off when I try cranking again.
I just brought this Dizzy a few months ago from RockAuto..if warranty is still good I'll trade it out.

The Odd thing is this:
After deciding that I wanted send it back, I put the distributor back together(in the car), tried ONE MORE TIME to start it up(just cause), cranked for 5-7 seconds and IT STARTED........

Drove it around...no issues.

I'm gonna send it back anyway, this distributor is gonna play a trick on me(not start) when I'm at work trying to get home.

I'll let you guys know if the issue is still there after replacing it..and Pray that it's not a wiring issue else where in the car(I hate those).

 

You should pull the code. If there's a code set for one of the distributor sensors, replace distributor.