Go with the recommended 7.5A fuse. A 5A fuse might blow out under normal load.

 

ok ill start plugging in connectors right now then lol.

 

I was also wondering...since this circuit goes to the VSS, alternator, and o2 sensor...should i have my alternator checked? I already replaced the VSS when i was trying to find the problem originally.

 

Install the new fuse box. If all is fine thereafter, do nothing more unless a problem arises.

 

Well...i ran a wire around the car to see if the car was good...it was fine...i ran the wire thru the firewall and the speedo is going crazy again...wtf? The wire doesn't have any exposed areas or anything. I guess i will have to wait till tomorrow to see whats going on but i dont get it...

 

Did you replace the fuse box?

Explain how and where you installed the said wire.

 

Yes i replaced the fuse box.

The first time i ran a "test" wire. Not routed inside the car. It went from the fuse box and out the window to the connector on the strut tower. I did it like that to make sure that if the wire was going to melt I would be able to tell if its getting hot and save me the headache of running a wire that is going to melt. I started the car up and it ran just fine. I took my "test" wire off and I ran another wire like your supposed to through the firewall and bundled all together. I started up the car and its doing the same thing as before with the speedo jumping and all the same symptoms of before.

My "test" wire was considerably longer though, maybe 2-3 feet longer. I double checked to see if i was blowing the #15 fuse and it is fine and the fuse holder is un-melted...for now. I made sure the wire wasn't shorted to anything.

 

As four separate BLK/WHT wires that exit from the under-dash fuse box are protected by fuse 15, it is important to know which one was melted. One BLK/WHT wire exits from the rear of the fuse box at terminal 13 of connector 421 (C421) (see diagrams). Was this specific wire melted or was one of the other three BLK/WHT wires melted?

 

It is terminal 13 of connector 421. I looked at it again today.

I never replaced the wire that went under the IM since it didn't seem to be messed up and well...it wasn't messed up at all. I checked to see if any of the wires going to the ecu were messed up and those all seem fine. Then the same exact thing happened. I started it up and drove around and it was fine. The car was on for 30-45 min and then i turned it off and turned it back on and then the needle started jumping around again.

 

Would an alternator that draws too many amps cause this to happen? Its in the same circuit and would make sense...right?