Originally Posted by mk378
(Post 641094)
Adjust the stop screw so the throttle plate just closes fully, but does not slam against the sides of the throttle body.
Then, be sure to calibrate your TPS before doing anything else. You can also test at the center wire of the TPS under the hood. Like Ron said, turn the key on to power up the ECU and sensors, but do not start the engine. With the IACV disconnected, rpm should decrease but the engine should not quite stall. While fully warmed up, adjust the air screw (not the stop screw) to get about 400 rpm with the IACV wire disconnected. In other words barely running but not stalling. If you still have stalling issues you could try opening the air screw a little more. You just can't have it go over 750 rpm on air from the screw alone, as the ECU would not be able to slow it down and you will get a CEL. |
Originally Posted by chasemclemore
(Post 641097)
After unhooking IACV idle should decrease or increase... ron says increase (just making sure)
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Originally Posted by RonJ
(Post 641099)
MK is correct for a D16Y8 engine -- sorry for my error.
Tested TPS- .665 -4.665.... not the problem. I have the pcv valve to change now...we shall see |
please help found pcv and wondered if I need to take the oil filter off to get to it... I am curious because I just changed oil and dont want to hurt anything... is it going to mess it up if I take the filter off to work on this and immediately put it back on?
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Just a heads up, it was my throttle body all is well now and car runs soooo much better... thanks for the help everyone!
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I am having exactly the same problems, so please tell me what was the problem with thotle body and how did you solve it?
Thanks. |
Originally Posted by siny
(Post 671048)
I am having exactly the same problems, so please tell me what was the problem with thotle body and how did you solve it?
Thanks. |
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