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headgasket replacement - best gasket and bolts?

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  #1  
Old 10-01-2007, 09:52 PM
wantacivicwagon's Avatar
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Default headgasket replacement - best gasket and bolts?

Long story short my 254,000 mile 93 Civic, D15D7,is leaking oil externally and sipping coolant internally at a very slow rate. Ironically the car has been pressure tested and has passed. Original headgasket was replaced by a shop at around 113,000. Turns out there is a service bulletin # 97-047 that I'm sure was not complied with when the independent shop replaced it in 97. Here is a link showing the updated headgasket and specific headbolts for the exact problem I'm having - it also lists part numbers required for the updated gasket and headbolts. http://www.underhood.com/editorial/ar/eb040518.htm [/align][/align]I want this to be the last headgasket before the engine is rebuilt when it hits 700,000+ I'll be doing the job myself and I'm a recovering perfectionist. [/align][/align]Is there a better headgasket for this engine and better headbolts? I searched this form for the "97-047" Service bulletin and found nothing. Please explain why the parts you are recommendingare better than what the Honda Service bulletin recommends. Sorry I'm a have to know why person. [/align][/align]Thanks,[/align][/align]Glen[/align]
 
  #2  
Old 10-01-2007, 10:27 PM
riceburner700's Avatar
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Default RE: headgasket replacement - best gasket and bolts?

spray copper coat on it before you install the gasket to help seal better
 
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Old 10-02-2007, 10:49 AM
wantacivicwagon's Avatar
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Default RE: headgasket replacement - best gasket and bolts?

Also I was wondering if the head needs to be milled due to warpage. . .does the head need to be completely or partially disassembled to have this done? I'm also assuming that my compression will go up slightly - am I correct?[/align]
 
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Old 10-03-2007, 06:15 PM
Type RB's Avatar
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Default RE: headgasket replacement - best gasket and bolts?

You won't notice a big compression difference if they mill off a couple thousandths just to straighten it all back out.

If you take it to a good machine shop, they'll do what they need to do. But remove anything off the head that's not part of the valve-train. Sensors, hose in/outlets, pulleys, etc. They'll do whatever they have to do for the valve-train - sometimes, the valves might bind in the valve guides if the head's that badly out of whack.
 
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