Help me plz
 

Ok so this past week I bought this 94 sedan d15b2 bottom, d16y8 head. Vtec is not wired up yet. So my problem is that the idle was adjusted a lil bit higher to 1500 rpms which I don't like. Now the bad part is some days when I start it the idle jumps to 2000 rpms and when I drive off I notice when I press the clutch in, it idles anywhere from 2500-3800 rpms. Now I know there's something wrong with it, im just not sure what. The only other thing that I see that is wrong with it is the coolant hose that connects right under the alternator dribbles a little bit here and there . I'm going to be replacing that hose tomorrow. Also the wire for the temp guage is not connected. Its not overheating. I was wondering if anybody could help guide me to fix this or point me in the direction of somebody that can help me. Located in chambersburg pa 17202

Make sure throttle plate closes fully with no one pressing the gas pedal. The throttle stop screw should be adjusted so the plate just touches the sides of the throttle body but does not slam shut. That screw is NOT to be used to adjust the idle speed. It is supposed to be set once at the factory and then left alone. If someone has been tinkering with it you need to set it back.

Also the throttle cable must be slack when not pressing the gas. They can get sticky when old.

Excessive air entering the intake (i.e. vacuum leak) will increase idle speed. For example a bad gasket, disconnected hose, or blown brake booster.

There are three intentional leaks that keep the engine running at a controlled speed:
--IACV (Honda calls it the EACV) on the back of the intake. This is driven by the computer to closed-loop control the idle. With the wire unplugged it should close fully and you get a lower than normal idle. The valve seldom goes fully bad but they can get gummed up with black residue that needs to be cleaned out.
--Air bleed screw on the top of the throttle body. Adjusted to admit just enough air to get a 450 rpm idle with IACV unplugged.
-- FITV (Fast Idle Thermal Valve) on the bottom of throttle body. Should open only when coolant temperature is below 60F to boost idle after a cold start. They can become stuck open.

If you remove the air intake duct you will see three ports in the side of the throttle body before the throttle plate leading to those three devices. You can feel for air flow with the engine running to see which one(s) are drawing air.

The temperature gauge sensor is screwed into the end of the head underneath the distributor. It is the one toward the back with a single wire. The one toward the front with two wires drives the ECU and doesn't have anything to do with the dashboard gauge. Speaking of that, if it is disconnected the ECU will assume the engine is very cold and increase the idle speed. Also the CEL will come on.

Ok so I've tried all of that. Nothing worked. I think the guy screwed this thing up. Now it blew a fuel line. Kinda irritated with this. The engine harness is hacked on this whip. I have a 93 cx with a d15b8. Could I swap that engine harness and intake manifold onto the y8 head? So basically I would try to put a b8 intake on a y8 head? Is this possible for like the map sensor and all. I want to go this route so I can start off with a clean engine harness and intake manifold. I appreciate your help so far