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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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mike92civc's Avatar
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hey guys, so my timing belt slipped like a quarter turn on the crank, so i replaced my timing belt,tensioner,headgasket and intake exhaust gaskets. the valves were just fine. put it all back together and she fired right up. so we let it idle in the driveway for about 5 min, then took her for a drive. was putting out of my trailer court and went down the road gently. it drove fine for about a kilometer then i went to downshift from third to second, and when i put in the clutch it just died, and wouldnt start. towed it back, and now i figure it has no compression. take er apart aagain tomorrow. what happened you think? why would the belt slip? thanks for your help...
 
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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did you tension the belt properly?
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 07:41 AM
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well when you say properly??? we snugged the spring up, was way too loose. grabbed it by hand and pulled it over and tightened it till the belt was tight. I meen it ran fine for like 15 min, then just died when i put the clutch in. gonna pull the timing covers this afternoon and see wtf. its got me stumped.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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Tightening the belt more than the spring does is bad too. That's why they put a spring there with it's only purpose to set the belt tension during replacement.

Also the bolt on the tensioner needs to be TIGHT before running the engine, or it will come loose.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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ok, maybe it was too tight? the spring barely tightened it at all, and the parts store didnt have a listing for it? tourqed it to 33ft/lbs like my haynes says.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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so i just pulled the valve cover, the cam gear is up and the timing marks on the pulley is where we put it, lined up the crank gear with the pointer on the block. so now i gues go back to fuel and spark?
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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To make engine run, you need air, compression, fuel and spark, all at the right time and right amount, respectively.

Good luck.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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to tension the belt you are supposed to have the bolt loosened just enough so the tensioner can move, then you take a ratchet and turn the crank pulley bolt counterclockwise so that the cam gear turns at least 3 teeth counterclockwise. Then you tighten the tensioner bolt.
 
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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so, here we go.... it had no spark so checked to see if the rotor spun when we cranked it and it didn't. turns out the cam gear spun on the cam, sheard the pin right off. so i got a new cam gear from the auto wrecker, put it all back together and it fired right up ran great for like 30 seconds, till i let out the clutch and it just died. tried to crank it again and it made some clacking noises. pulled the valve cover and upper timing cover again. pulled the crank pulley, set it to tdc on the block and it was out of time again. the up mark on the cam was at about 7 o'clock. and now it sits. i'm sure we tightened the belt correctly, it spun by hand several times and lined up before we started it. why is it throwing the belt?
 
Old Oct 2, 2010 | 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mike92civc
so, here we go.... it had no spark so checked to see if the rotor spun when we cranked it and it didn't. turns out the cam gear spun on the cam, sheard the pin right off. so i got a new cam gear from the auto wrecker, put it all back together and it fired right up ran great for like 30 seconds, till i let out the clutch and it just died. tried to crank it again and it made some clacking noises. pulled the valve cover and upper timing cover again. pulled the crank pulley, set it to tdc on the block and it was out of time again. the up mark on the cam was at about 7 o'clock. and now it sits. i'm sure we tightened the belt correctly, it spun by hand several times and lined up before we started it. why is it throwing the belt?
It sounds like to me that the cam/valve train has extra drag, causing it to have gear spun on the cam. But I thought the gear is woodruff keyed on the camshaft,,,????

Drive gear on timing belt is on crankshaft and driven gears are on the cam and water pump. Drive gear is trying to turn but one of two driven gear is fighting back. The weak part (belt) can't take the load and jumps. Although you made sure it turns by hand, it may be different story when engine is running.

Also make sure the head is getting enough oil/pressure somehow. I had one CVCC engine that had a small bit of RED RTV stuck on the orifice causing to run with less oil in head. It ruined the head eventually. This is why I stay away from those sealants that may break away in bits.
 

Last edited by maachan513; Oct 3, 2010 at 05:55 AM.



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