How cold is your A/C?
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
ORIGINAL: RonJ
Well, your choices are to return the car for servicing or troubleshoot the problem yourself. The latter requires a set of manifold gauges.
Well, your choices are to return the car for servicing or troubleshoot the problem yourself. The latter requires a set of manifold gauges.
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
If you went to a hole in the wall place, they charge a lot cheaper for a reason. Thay are not honda certified, so they will reeplace whatever will get the part working the cheapest way, and charge you less than a dealer
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
ORIGINAL: StonedCold
...I mainly need to know what the manifold gauges should read.
...I mainly need to know what the manifold gauges should read.
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
ORIGINAL: RonJ
With the engine idling at 1500 rpm and the A/C set to max cool and max blower, the low side should read 26-36 psi and the high side should read 240-300 psi if the system is fine. As mundy5 suggests, see the 96-00 manual for more details (see link below).
ORIGINAL: StonedCold
...I mainly need to know what the manifold gauges should read.
...I mainly need to know what the manifold gauges should read.
As for going to the hole in the wall- I didn't choose them. At least they did the compressor. I can do the rest if I have too.
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
I looked in the manual thing but I guess I wasn't patient enough cause I didn't see the readings. I saw how to graph it. But not the readings. Oh well, guess I'm getting old.
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
What was wrong with your old compressor? Leaky? Clutch issue? or seized up? If it had major internal failure you have bits of the old compressor stuck in your condenser now. They will plug up the tiny internal passages and hinder performance. Eventually some will come loose and get into the new compressor and damage it.
Assuming it was a leak or situation that warrants merely slapping on a new compressor, not using a vacuum pump, too much oil, too much or too little refrigerant will all hinder cooling. The charge amount of both refrigerant and oil is quite critical. I suspect a hole in the wall place did not own a vacuum pump and also would've used whatever oil came in the compressor or put an excessive amount in to prevent a call-back.
Some of the quick-lube shops have bought refrigerant machines so they can evacuate and recharge systems. Have someone remove whatever is in there (weigh it just for kicks), pull a good vacuum, then put in the specified amount of new R-134a by weight. Resolving the oil issue is more difficult.
Assuming it was a leak or situation that warrants merely slapping on a new compressor, not using a vacuum pump, too much oil, too much or too little refrigerant will all hinder cooling. The charge amount of both refrigerant and oil is quite critical. I suspect a hole in the wall place did not own a vacuum pump and also would've used whatever oil came in the compressor or put an excessive amount in to prevent a call-back.
Some of the quick-lube shops have bought refrigerant machines so they can evacuate and recharge systems. Have someone remove whatever is in there (weigh it just for kicks), pull a good vacuum, then put in the specified amount of new R-134a by weight. Resolving the oil issue is more difficult.
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RE: How cold is your A/C?
ORIGINAL: mk378
What was wrong with your old compressor? Leaky? Clutch issue? or seized up? If it had major internal failure you have bits of the old compressor stuck in your condenser now. They will plug up the tiny internal passages and hinder performance. Eventually some will come loose and get into the new compressor and damage it.
Assuming it was a leak or situation that warrants merely slapping on a new compressor, not using a vacuum pump, too much oil, too much or too little refrigerant will all hinder cooling. The charge amount of both refrigerant and oil is quite critical. I suspect a hole in the wall place did not own a vacuum pump and also would've used whatever oil came in the compressor or put an excessive amount in to prevent a call-back.
Some of the quick-lube shops have bought refrigerant machines so they can evacuate and recharge systems. Have someone remove whatever is in there (weigh it just for kicks), pull a good vacuum, then put in the specified amount of new R-134a by weight. Resolving the oil issue is more difficult.
What was wrong with your old compressor? Leaky? Clutch issue? or seized up? If it had major internal failure you have bits of the old compressor stuck in your condenser now. They will plug up the tiny internal passages and hinder performance. Eventually some will come loose and get into the new compressor and damage it.
Assuming it was a leak or situation that warrants merely slapping on a new compressor, not using a vacuum pump, too much oil, too much or too little refrigerant will all hinder cooling. The charge amount of both refrigerant and oil is quite critical. I suspect a hole in the wall place did not own a vacuum pump and also would've used whatever oil came in the compressor or put an excessive amount in to prevent a call-back.
Some of the quick-lube shops have bought refrigerant machines so they can evacuate and recharge systems. Have someone remove whatever is in there (weigh it just for kicks), pull a good vacuum, then put in the specified amount of new R-134a by weight. Resolving the oil issue is more difficult.
Do these have a Orifice tube or a expansion valve? If it's the Otube- I'll change it too. If it's a valve- should it be changed- the car has 120,000 on it.