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-   -   ? How to unbolt window glass from regulator when window won't roll down? (https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/mechanical-problems-technical-chat-8/how-unbolt-window-glass-regulator-when-window-wont-roll-down-89135/)

Rattlin_Steele 06-01-2011 10:40 AM

? How to unbolt window glass from regulator when window won't roll down?
 
Hi. This is my first post on this forum, so thanks in advance for any help. I've used the search feature but wasn't able to find anything to specifically address my issue.

Daughter's 2002 4-dr Civic driver's (power) window won't roll down. I'm fairly certain the problem is with the regulator or it's motor. I've tested the motor using the test procedure found on page 22-197 of the Factory Service Manual and the window refuses to budge when power is applied. There is a very light clicking sound and noticeable arcing when I apply the contacts, but no other sounds or actions to indicate the motor is trying to work. I do notice that the motor gets warm/hot very quickly. This car has the cable-style regulator.

My problem is that I can't get access to the bolts needed to take the regulator loose from the window glass since the window is fully up. I did try to force the glass down by hand, but I was leery of pushing to hard and it didn't want to budge.

There are a number of approaches I could try I suppose, but I thought I'd ask first and see what others might suggest and have done in the same situation.

- Through the large opening, I can reach up high into the door and barely touch the bolts. Getting a wrench on them will be challenging.

- I can see the bolts when looking down from the top in the gap between the inside of the glass and inside metal door panel (with cosmetic panel removed), but the curvature of the glass will make getting a wrench on the bolts nearly impossible. Could waste a wrench and bend it's shaft maybe, forming like an old-time distributor wrench.

- Could cut the cable on the regulator maybe. Anyone know how thick the cable actually is inside the sheathing?

Sorry for the wordiness, but wanted to fully explain the situation.

mk378 06-01-2011 01:45 PM

I'd cut the cable. An angle grinder should go right through it. You want a clean cut (as opposed to what a bolt cutter or other pincher tool would do) so the end can slide in the housing and let the window down.

Before you do that, plug your new regulator into the car harness and confirm that it works, thus the problem must be the old motor or regulator and you aren't losing anything cutting the cable.

inthezoneac 06-01-2011 04:47 PM

try removing some or all of the regulator bolts, that secure the regulator to the door. Make sure to hold the lower part of the window as it may try to fall/collapse and then you'll be able to remove the bolts holding the window to the regulator, then finish by taking out the remaining bolts to get the regulator out.

Test the motor after you take it off the regulator with the factory connector/switch.


Another thing you could do is disconnect the motor connector from the window switch, hook up the motor to the battery to see if it'll lower that way. Obviously reversing polarity will raise or lower the window, so don't worry about hurting the motor or the battery.

Rattlin_Steele 06-06-2011 10:45 AM

Just to follow up for the benefit of anyone else who has the same problem and reads this.

I was able to get it loose. As advised above, I did unbolt the regulator bolts from the door frame which allowed the window to drop about an inch. Helped a little. The window glass bolt toward the rear of the door was easier. The left access hole in the panel allowed me to easily get my arm up there and I was now able to feel the threaded end of the bolt and find the head easier. Worked a 10mm wrench down from the top with the right hand and used the left to get it on the head. Was careful to avoid rubbing the wrench against the window tint. Once it broke loose it wasn't too difficult to turn it with the left hand by turning the threaded end instead. Had to use the head for the final few turns but was able to work it loose with my fingers.

Same process for the other glass bolt toward the front, but a lot harder. There is an access hole on the right, above the speaker, but it's much smaller. I had my arm in there past the elbow and at one point I couldn't get it back out. I was by myself, sitting off balance, and getting pretty worried, but I finally got it loose after a couple minutes. On loosening the bolt, one thing that helped was once I broke it loose using a wrench from the top, I was able to pivot the regulator since only one bolt held it to the glass and this allowed it drop a little more (pushed the glass back up and swung the regulator more to the front of the door). I again turned the bolt by it's threaded end, but the last few turns using the head were extremely tough because of the smaller opening for my right arm.

I don't like removing the glass out of the door if at all possible, so I cut a wedge of rigid polyfoam and put it in between the glass and the inside door frame. I used a wooden door shim between the polyfoam and the metal frame and it held the glass in place for the rest of the procedure.

Took the regulator and motor out. The traveling carriage, elevator-like thing that runs up and down seemed stuck. I thought it should move some, even if forced against the motor/gears. It wouldn't budge, so I tapped it lightly with a small hammer. Still couldn't get it to move, but decided to put power to it and test it again anyway. It made a clicking sound, but just like when it was in the car, it wouldn't move. I pushed against the carriage while power was applied and it started working again. After that it seemed to work fine. I lubricated it liberally with white lithium grease and put it back in. So far so good.

Luckily I had not ordered a new regulator yet. I had read some posts on here where regulators began to work after removal. If it hadn't worked, there was no way to re-bolt that regulator back to the glass, so I would have to have figured out a way to prop the window in the up position till a new one arrived.

Was also fortunate that I didn't cut the cable. I'm really not sure that would have allowed the carriage to drop because it seemed to be stuck so badly. I had tried to force the window down while someone operated the switch when it was in the car, but you can only get so much of a grip on the glass using your outspread hands on each side, and I was very leery of using too much force so as to break something.

Anyway, thanks for the advice and hope this helps someone else in the future.


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