ok gys here goes i know idle problems have been played out around here but i have been searching around this forum for months and i have tried all the advice that has been givin to other members and im at i loss. here is what it was doing. it would idle at about 700 rpm and it would shake violently at about 1500 rpm and i had a cel on with code 14. i tried changing out the iac valve ,ficv, bleeding the coolant, changed the map sensor, checked for vacuum leaks. the only thing i found was a screw in the larger hole on the butterfly in the tb( ya this car is rigged). so i removed the screw ad it idled about 1300 rpm but didnt shake as bad at 1500 rpm unless every once and a while the cel would go out after i restarted it then i wouldnt shake at all at 1500 rpm but would still idle at 1300 rpm. then i got mad so i just started changing other things so i changed the throttle body. so i went to the junk yard and pulled one out of an identical car with a d15b7 just like mine. so i pulled it and brought it home and while i was changing it i found that mine had 1 lil hole and one bigger hole on the butterfly so i looked at the new one and it had no holes so i put the new one in it and guess what now it idles at about 700 rpm perfect. but it still shake violently at about 1500 rpm but only when the cel is on - cuz sometimes after i drive for a lil while and i restart the car it goes out and the car idles perfect and no shakes at 1500. im at a loss with this thing. im sorry this is such a long post but if anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated

 

There should be no holes in the throttle plate. So my first advice would have been to replace the throttle body assembly, which you did.

To set the idle system up, warm up the engine fully and then disconnect the wires to the IACV. The rpm should drop to about 400. Adjust the idle air screw on the top of the throttle body to get 400 rpm. The idle air screw looks like a plug about 10 mm diameter with a flat screwdriver slot in it. Note that this is NOT the screw that stops the throttle plate from closing too far. Do not adjust that screw at all. That screw should be set up so the throttle plate closes completely at idle, but does not slam metal on metal with the sides of the throttle body.

After doing this, reconnect the wire and you should have a normal idle. Turn off the engine and reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery or removing the BACK UP fuse in the fuse box under the hood.

The shaking when you try to rev up the engine sounds like a different problem. Are all 4 cylinders working? Disconnect the fuel injectors one at a time to test that.

 

i got the idleing thing adjusted perfect i think. i havent unhooked the injectors but i tried pulling off each spark plug wire and everytime i pulled one it started to run horribly and besides the 1500 shakes it runs perfect so im pretty sure its running on all cylinders. i unhooked the battery and pulled the fuse a lil while ago so we will see what happens with that thanks for the reply any more ideas

 

well i hooked back up the battery and still the same ol stuff. i did however try and do the idle adjustment again just like i was told above and i noticed when i unhooked the iacv there was no change in rpm. is ther supposed to be is there anyway i can check the wiring going to the iacv to make sure that part of it is working since ive put quit a few iacv with no luck well anyways thanks in advance

 

Here's how to troubleshoot code 14:

 

alright well i got a multi-meter and got 13.2 volts dc at the yellow and black wire. so it tells me next to hook up the test harness and i dont have that. is there any other way to do that part. or should i just throwand ecu at it and see what happens. if so does anyone have an ecu i could buy.

 

It's premature to purchase an ECU. For example, there could also be a bad wire between the ECU and EACV. Call your Honda dealer or Majestic Honda (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/) about obtaining the test harness.

 

Unlplug the EACV and start closing the air screw. Can you slow the engine down to 400 rpm that way? Once that has been done, replug the EACV and idle speed should increase to normal.

If you can't slow the engine down with the EACV unplugged, it could be stuck open, or excessive air is leaking in through the FICV or other path. Anything that lets air leak into the intake manifold will increase the idle speed of these engines.

If the engine doesn't speed up with the EACV replugged, it could be stuck closed or in an intermediate position, or it is not getting any drive from the ECU. To check for drive, measure between the two wires with the valve plugged in. You should have nearly 12 volts when the engine is idling way low. Also check that the EACV coil is not an open circuit.