My engine won't start again. Distributor, ECU, fuel pump, relays and all sensors have been replaced two month ago. Battery is brand new. Can crank but just cant start. Been spending thousand on all replacment. I took very good care of my 92 civic esi. I cant feel my engine is dying.
Now the workshop told me that my engine is gone. I wonder if they are telling the truth. This morning, they removed my top engine.
See pictures:


Deep socket is used to crank it, but struck at position. Wont turn anymore even with force.

The first and fourth piston is out by 2-3mm in height. Second and third piston is levelled. IS THIS NORMAL?


I would like to know if my engine is really gone. Is that the reason why my car wont start at times. I would like to know if the shaft can crank freely if normal.
Any corncerns, PM me. I appreciate all helps.

 

Is this car a manual or automatic? If it's a manual, you won't be able to turn the crankshaft pulley bolt easily if you left the car in gear.

Can you describe in more detail what happens when you try to start the car and can't?

 

I am driving automatic transmission. I placed my shift in neutural position but unable to crank the shaft completelywith a deep socket. As the 1st & 4th pistoon move up, 2nd & 3rd piston move down. Till they are struck at the position as shown in the photo. I tried to crank with my strength but to no avail.
Already there is afew times that my car won't start. All sensors, distributor, fuel pump, relay, battery are brand new.

 

if you put a socket on the crank bolt & it should spin around & around , with ease, if it gets to a point where you can't turn it , i'd say you may havea bent connecting rod or crankshaft
regardless if the motor wont spin around easy - its toast
taking the head off was a waste of time & $$$ all they had to do is take the spark plugs out & try to crank it by hand to find out it wont turn all the way around

 

ya if its stuck the motor could be toast..... like already said either a rod bent or maybe even burnt /spun bearings...

a quick way to look at the pistons cranking is pull the fuse pump conection off the tank itself under the back seat and then just drop the battery back in crank the engine over with the key
thats what i did when playing around with my old z6 motor tho i knew it was trashed from the hole in the front of the block...
http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=MOV00194.flv
LOL
tho my rod thru the front of the block told me mine was toast, but i bought it that way as well....


at least you can recoupe alittle cash from selling the head as long as theirs no marks in the head if the piston was thrown and posibly smacked the valves. i got 100bucks for my old head... and i got a steal of a deal on my replacement z6motor for only 250bucks from some local guy that had it siting around for about a year.. tho i did get lucky and the motor was in great shape! but still turned around and spent almost twice on new oil seals and such, new belts and water pump.... just afew things that is a good idea if you want a drip and trouble free motor.

tho before ya sell your old motor parts make sure your new motor has good parts.... or keep them as a backup replacement parts.....

 

since the fourth and first pistons are not at the same height, that would mtell me something is wrong, possibly a bent connecting rod or bent crank? either way they should be the same height under all standard circumstances. i dont know how it could get like that, when you do something like that its usually gonna be a pretty loud noise and a change in exhaust note if it keeps running, not somthing that you can ignore unfortunatly.

 

I dropped the oil pan and removed all the four piston. The no.1 connecting rod is slightly bent. No other faults are found. This may be the reason why my car won't able to start. Now, I am curious why the connecting rod is bent????

 

My engine is gone. The connecting rod bent again after chainging to a new piece. Guess there is something wrong with the camshaft or the block.

 

seems like your crankcase is bent or something