Greetings all,

I'm a former auto tech from many moons ago. Never worked on Honda's though, however I do know quite a bit about the basics.

I've got an '83 1500 Civic wagon with two problems:

First, I've done a complete tune up on the car and all vacuum lines appear to be fine.

I've adjusted the carb float levels and both are centered in the site glass with the engine idling. However, if I drive down the road, when I come to a stop, it is flooding out. When I look at the site windows, both bowls are completely full of fuel.

If I keep it running for about 20 seconds or so, the level slowly drops back down to where it should be and then it will idle fine...

I'm stumped! It's very frustrating because it constantly wants to stall out. I'm thinking fuel pump or possibly fuel pressure regulator (does this thing even have one?) but have never seen a pump that has pressure runaway when flowing more fuel...

No, it's not the needle and seat. First I grabbed a second carb from the wrecking yard and it did the exact same thing. Then I rebuilt my original carb with new needle and seat and it's still doing it...

I'm considering adding an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but I shouldn't have to... Anyone run into this before?

The second issue is an oil burning one. I've already replaced all valve seals with new viton and have also replaced the auxilary valve seals and o-rings. Valve guides had minimal wear (car has 130K on it).

If the car sits overnight, when I start it in the morning, I get a HUGE cloud of blue smoke. It will burn off then clean itself up...

So my question is this - has anyone ever had a situation where the head gasket leaked in the oil passage area that allowed the pressurized oil to the head to leak into a cylinder? This is the only other thing that I can think of.

Yes, it burns some oil when running but not much. I doubt it's rings but haven't done a leakdown yet. Further, it clearly leaks oil into one or more cylinders after it's been sitting because the smoke is unreal...

I'm thinking I need a custom license plate that says INSCTFGR or something...

Again, I'm stumped on this because the way it acts I would have immediately thought bad valve guides and seals. However the guides had no detectable movement with the springs off and as I said the seals are new. Even with bad guides, I've never seen anything smoke like this from sitting overnight...

Any help would be much appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Steve

 

I have a question...where the heck did you find an 83 Honda with only 130,000 on it?? hows the body?

 

Found it on the Seattle Craigslist and was lucky enough to be the first responder...

I was at the guy's house within 2 hours and he'd had over 100 calls on it... LOL!

Paid $345 for it.

The guy had recently put a clutch in it and it had new brakes...

Body is very good. One minor rub mark on the passenger door and one 1 1/2" spot of surface rust where the roof meets the back hatch... no perforation anywhere on the car...

Inside is very good.

Paint is oxidized though...

Still looks good...

Once I get it back to running like a Timex life will be very good!

 

I wish that I could direct you to a downloadable manual, but I haven't been able to locate one for Civics older than 1984. Have you tried to purchase a manual? I think it might be a worthwhile investment.

 

Come on guys, isn't there anyone out there who really knows these motors?

I've just never had one apart and really don't want to pull the head if I don't have to...

Also the fuel issue - I can't be the only one who has experienced this issue...

Need to know if these are common problems with these or not...

Thanks,

Steve

 

Most of us dont have cars of that generation. Its very hard to find a nice one that is that old

 

I think it would be hard to find a civic of that vintage, especially in the shape you've described. My bro used to have a 79 accord (its what I learned to drive stick in) but other then it being red, and having a 1.8 prelude engine I don't remember much about it. Sorry - thats all the info I got on the older Hondas

 

My manual only goes back to 84, but I would think the 83 is similar. It says to pull the fuel return line from the pump as part of the testing procedure. If yours is similar, it means that the pressure regulator is inside of the pump. I would do the pressure and flow checks on the pump to see if it's within limits. Also check the return line for blockage, there is a air vent hole on the pump, check it to see if there is blockage, or evidence of fuel/oil stains.

You say that you rebuilt the carb with seat and needle, and tried a different carb, with no effect. This would make me think that it is a fuel supply, or excess fuelreturn problem.
That is where I would start, pump or return.

BUT you did not say what else the carb kit contained. Most of us have not done a carb in years. Did the kit contain diaphragms for the accelerator pump, inside the carb, and the bypass valve that goes with it, also located in the carb.
In the old days, when you got a carb kit, it included all the O-rings, gaskets, diaphragms, and a guage for the new float.
Don't know what you get now.

When I overhaul aircraft carbs, I strip the carb down, take off all covers and rubber parts, etc. Then I soak it overnight in a vat of carb degreaser, that I don't even know if you can buy anymore. It comes out nice and clean,I spend a couple of hours cleaning and checking the internal passages, and replacing all the parts. Clean is the thing.

On the smoking, I would pull the plugs in the morning and try to turn the engine by hand, see if you can locate a cylinder that has oil in it, this would help narrow it down.

 

I have one with 128,000 miles clean needing a little work but other wise run's and drives great