Ok so I burned 2 exhaust valves in cylinder 2&3 one in each in my 89 civic 1.5 dpfi 4 speed. So I picked up a y7 head slapped it on and left it dpfi for a cheap fix that I read would give it alittle umph from the higher compression either way I got the car for mpg's. So the problem im having is code 20 and when it is warmed up it runs rough like a miss at idle and it sputters when u try to treadle off or shift to another gear like no low rpm power. It had alot more bottom end before I swapped the head so wat do u guys think it could be I've searched alot of forums about this but never found a pin point answer. Thanks guys.

 

Be sure the cooling system is completely full-- look in the radiator with the engine cold. Check the timing. Also did you properly do valve adjustment; a valve that is too tight will cause loss of compression and poor idle. Code 20 is usually spurious I don't think it has anything to do with engine performance.

 

Ok I'll give them ideas shot thanks

 

I still don't understand y code 20 is coming up I fixed the ground with a thicker wire 0 gauge and disconnected the battery for 15 mins and it still has the code well wat it does when I check for codes is I turn the key in the on position and I get one blink then another then 20 blinks

 

Now which cam gear am I suppose to use cuz I have the d16 gear on now and the crank pulley is off by a tooth

 

Ok so now how do I clear codes cuz I keep getting a cel after about 3 mins of driving at a constant speed above 40 mph and believe its code 20.i just want to get rid of the cel cuz its annoying me

 

So I retarded the timing some cuz I was noticing some pinging still feels like its still missing at idle well not really missing just vibrates more than it did with the old head. And still would like to know y this code 20 keeps showing up usually I won't see it til I'm on the interstate for about 2 mins at a constant rpm