oil leak=false timing
i am trying to retime my car to stock setting but when i get it there it revs up high...so i adjust it, alot, to where the tdc mark is my timing setting. it seems to run fine, just the instant drop in rpm when i press gas. another thing i have found is that my cam shaft seel is leaking a bit along with my valvecover gasket. i found oil dripping out from under the idler pulley but i believe its coming from cam area. well my question is can these bad gaskets be the source of y my car has to be way off on he timing. o and counter clockwise is advance, clockwise is retard....right
You probably have an air leak, faulty IACV, or someone opened up the air screw if it's idling too fast with the timing set to stock.
Oil leaking on the timing belt is bad, it will lead to premature belt failure. But it doesn't affect the timing.
Oil leaking on the timing belt is bad, it will lead to premature belt failure. But it doesn't affect the timing.
check this out...i have new gaskets on intake stuff...the idle screw hardly makes a difference in my idle, i dont think i have a leak. but my question was will the oil leaking out cause my car to lets say bog out or seem like it has little to no power
well first thing.... when you adjusted the timing did you short the computers advance wire inside the car under the dash? if not the computer keeps compensating. you need to cross the wire terminal so the computer wont correct your adjustment and them time it properly... and then remove the jumper wire from that terminal.
but if you still dont have power.... then thiers a good chance your belt has sliped a tooth from that oil leaking onto it....
if you havent replaced those oil seals then i sugest doing that and when you do so check your TDC and cranks oil pump pointer dot to ensure they are both in the right location.... if its off a tooth it will run but wont have any power... been thier done that cause i swaped the belt and seals and didnt check the cranks pointer dot
easy to fix tho if ya got afew hours...
but if you still dont have power.... then thiers a good chance your belt has sliped a tooth from that oil leaking onto it....
if you havent replaced those oil seals then i sugest doing that and when you do so check your TDC and cranks oil pump pointer dot to ensure they are both in the right location.... if its off a tooth it will run but wont have any power... been thier done that cause i swaped the belt and seals and didnt check the cranks pointer dot

easy to fix tho if ya got afew hours...
ok it now seems good at start up but has a little sputter when i give it gas and when i release the gas, i have also noticed my xhaust pipe is completely black inside of it. i seem to be puffing out black..i wanna say powder/charcoal looking stuff. oh and the new sound it makes sounds like a beefy engine kinda noise
Check your cam timing. Jumper the test plug and adjust the spark timing to spec.
Then unplug the wires to the IACV and you should be able to turn the air screw until the idle speed goes down so much that the engine stalls. If not then you have an air leak (freshly installed gaskets would increase the probablilty of such), the IACV is stuck open, or the throttle plate doesn't close fully.
Once you resolve that, adjust the air screw so the engine barely stays running (400 rpm) with the IACV disconnected, plug in the IACV and you're good to go.
Then unplug the wires to the IACV and you should be able to turn the air screw until the idle speed goes down so much that the engine stalls. If not then you have an air leak (freshly installed gaskets would increase the probablilty of such), the IACV is stuck open, or the throttle plate doesn't close fully.
Once you resolve that, adjust the air screw so the engine barely stays running (400 rpm) with the IACV disconnected, plug in the IACV and you're good to go.
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