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One click from the solenoid and no start

Old 05-22-2013, 12:04 PM
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I have now tested the voltage of the positive wire terminal on the starter connected to the positive part of the battery. It was like 1, so that is crazy low. Does it matter that I have my starter disconnected from the fly wheel when I did the first test for voltage running through the starter? If you don't know, 06 Civics have a starter under the engine in an impossible place to get to. The only way I could test connections was if I dropped the starter out. The solenoid still clicked, but the starter wasn't getting enough power through the main source. I am guessing those terminals are done or some other wire up between the starter and the battery.
Old 05-22-2013, 01:00 PM
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So I tested the terminal and voltage didn't change much when cranked: 12.4ish. However, when I tested the terminal when attached to the starter and had my negative multimeter spike on the ground, it lost volts substantially. So this would be my starter, right? Something in the solenoid isn't giving the starter wheel enough power.
Old 05-22-2013, 02:33 PM
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I don't understand anything. I went ahead and tried to replace the starter and still nothing. The terminal was getting power, so I figured it was the starter. I am at my wit's end.
Old 05-23-2013, 03:22 AM
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It is essential to test with everything put together. You can extend a test point with a piece of wire with an alligator clip on it if you can't probe directly.

First check the battery again. Put the meter probes directly on the tops of the lead posts that are part of the battery. This is different from measuring on the metal terminals that are part of the car. If the battery voltage holds up, next measure on the terminals. If the voltage there drops, there is a bad connection at a terminal. This is the most common place to have a bad connection.

Finding things OK at the battery, you can now go to a different method of testing. This is based on finding where the voltage is being lost by measuring the voltage drop across parts that are supposed to be connected. Put one probe on each side of the connection (polarity doesn't matter). A good connection drops only a fraction of a volt. A bad one will show several volts when the key is turned.

Start this search by considering the whole positive circuit as a "connection". Test from the battery + lead post to the starter input post. If that has a drop, then test smaller segments to narrow down the problem. Go from the post to the terminal on the battery, the post to the wire, the post to the wire at the starter end, etc. When the path between the two meter probes includes the bad connection, the voltage will appear.

If there's no drop on the positive side, test the negative side the same way.
Old 02-03-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bradleybebad View Post
My car clicks after turning the key in the ignition, but won't start. At first it tried to start, then that just went away and now it clicks. The click is coming from the starter solenoid. I took my battery in and it was fine. I replaced the ground cable on the battery as well. I also plugged a brand new battery in to check if it was the terminals: didn't work. Next, I removed the starter and had it checked: good to go; pinion wheel was engaged and nothing was frozen up. I even replaced the ignition switch and that didn't work.

Could it be the main power wire (not the solenoid wire) not getting enough juice to the starter? To my knowledge, it sounds like the pinion wheel is engaging--especially if it is being jumped. I am at a loss and have no clue. Any helpers?

Oh yeah, my car is a Honda Civic 2006 Automatic
I had this problem with the same exact car. 2006 honda civic would click one time when you turned the key. Ocassionally it would click a couple times but never anywhere near starting.
It took me about 2 hours to get the starter out, get it to autozone to have them test it and tell me its good.
It was a real bitch getting the starter back in and took forever so I hope the starter isnt your problem.

Before you do the cleaning process you can hook the two black clamps on a jumper cable (one to your negative battery post and one to a solid piece of steel on your car) try to start the car and if it starts (or trys to start more than before) that ground wire is the problem.
You may want to disconnect the positive terminalcfrom your battery before you clean the negative one, but make sure you dont leave the positive terminal touching anything metal.

This is the very short wire that hooks up just past and underneath the battery and is very accessible. Remove the small bolt holding the wire to the bottom and then before removing it from the battery terminal remove the two small bolts that crimp the wire to the connector that connects to your battery. Use a piece of sandpaper and some connector cleaner to clean off where the small bolt goes into your car and the wires the get crimped and the inside of the ring that connects to the battery post. Once all contact points are clean recrimp the wire in the bracket and reconnect!
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