The rear passenger window stopped working. I checked the fuses, and rearranged them to make sure they work. All the other windows work. Neither switch for the one window is making it move (master switch or on the door itself). I guess this means I need to take the door apart... or is there a way to manully override the power window so I can roll it up?

2004 LX

 

By the way, once the door panel is off how would you get it to roll up using power? I saw a video of a guy who cut the wires and used jumper cables from the battery, but if there is a way of doing that without cutting wires, I'd like to know... thanks.

Yeah, later I saw someone use external wires and plug them into the pins. That should do the trick without cutting the existing ones. I'm assuming the motor works (since the switch is said to go bad on Civics most often). I'll see...

 

Power for the clock probably comes from a fuse under the hood called "BACK UP". Did you check the fuses in the underhood box? Or the clock module itself is defective.

One window not working is very often broken wires between the frame and the driver's door. Circuits for each window go through the driver's door control panel as well as the related door. The wires to the drivers door are more prone to break because that door gets opened and closed a lot more than the others. Open the door and hold the button down while you wiggle the wires.

Yes to run the motor independent of the car electrical system you can use two test wires to connect to a battery. You don't need wire as thick as jumper cable, soemthing like heavy lamp cord will do. If the window tries to go down instead of up, reverse the polarity of the wires.

 

Thanks, I got it rolled up this morning, after taking the door panel off. Didn't have any spare wire, so I went to radio shack for a jumper wire kit, pre-soldered 22 guage of various lengths. They were so small, I plugged in two wires to each slot of the wire assembly (second in from the outer slots) and twisted each of the opposite ends together (but not from slot to slot). Started the engine then touched the jumper cables to those doubled ends and up it went. I don't think much bigger wire would have worked, since the switch that plugs into it is flat pronged. Those are copper prongs, so I'm not sure if it had to be soldered wire (or solderless as they say), but figured it couldn't hurt.

I'll see about those wires in the driver's door like you suggested, too. Oh, and the clock was working all along, its just a dim display and the sunlight was obscuring it (so I thought it was a compound problem when it was only the window after all).