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mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

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  #1  
Old 05-31-2008, 08:06 AM
turkeysandwich's Avatar
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Default mini me, brake rotors, and IACV


Hey everyone, I have lots of questions so I figured I would bunch them up on the same thread. I've got a 2000 DX that is currently at 107k and I think the IACV has crapped out. When I hold the car at a low RPM in any gear or at idle the engine speed quickly changes revs, from normal to slow. This usually happens if the car hasn't a chance to warm up completely but sometimes it occurs either way. The best way to describe it would be a slow version of a car that has hit the rev limiter. I removed the air filter and reved the car to find that the amount of air getting sucked through the IACV port changes proving that the IACV is opening and closing by itself thus changing the engine speed. What I wanted to ask was if the settings on the throttle position sensor would have anything to do with this. If the TPS has nothing to do with the problem I want to know if the IACV should be replaced, it technically is working because it does work, I recently cleaned it and wasn't too dirty. Basically what I'm asking is, could this be a problem with my ECU or wiring harness, or would dropping 190 bucks on an IACV be the way to go? My CEL hasn't lit up at all so I can't really pinpoint a problem by pulling codes.

My car needs brakes, my rotors are horribly warped and I was wondering what would be a good slotted high performance rotor, I know Brembos kick major ***, but I want something on the cheap side. For starters does anyone have any experience with Powerslots? I want something that will resist overheating since I do take the long route to the beach sometimes and haul *** through the canyons (which is how my rotors got warped). Whatever the rotor, I'm gonna mate it to a set of Hawk pads.

Lastly about a mini me conversion, I just wanted to know if it requires a new ECU if your currently running a D16Y7. I also want to know if I would have to replace my intake manifold.

 
  #2  
Old 05-31-2008, 09:29 AM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

Idle problem

How did you clean the IACV? Did you remove and clean the air port with carburetor cleaner:

https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_566911/tm.htm

1) I would suggest you start by increasing the idle speed with the screw on the throttle body:

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2) Afterwards, if the problem persists, try bleeding the cooling system of possible trapped air:

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Other possibilities include a problem with the intake air sensor circuit and a clogged air filter.

 
  #3  
Old 05-31-2008, 10:52 AM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

I sprayed it with carb cleaner, and I also removed the throttle body and cleaned the port with a rag to make sure there was nothing in there. I think that it's also worth mentioning that I haven't had a 100k tune up yet so what do you think the chances of it being related to the spark plugs and wires would be?
 
  #4  
Old 05-31-2008, 11:07 AM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

A basic tune up certainly couldn't hurt --

In addition to adjusting the idle speed and bleeding the cooling system, also consider these:
-Check the distributor cap and rotor for wear and corrosion.
-Use a timing gun to check whether the ignition timing is set to spec.
-Do a Seafoam treatment.
 
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:04 PM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

Thanks a bunch for the tips, I am going to be real busy now but I'll do anything for my Civic.
 
  #6  
Old 06-01-2008, 12:53 PM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV


So I started doing the stuff that didn't cost anything first, bled the cooling system and cleaned the distributor cap, but I'm not sure what the contact on the rotor should look like. Is there anything online that you might know of that would show me what a proper distributor cap and rotor SHOULD look like? Also, do you think the PCV valve would have any connection in this?
 
  #7  
Old 06-01-2008, 12:59 PM
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Default RE: mini me, brake rotors, and IACV

The metal contact(s) at the tip of the rotor spin and touch the metal contacts on the inside of the distributor cap. Do you see any visible wear or corrosion (white or green rather than shiny smooth metallic) on these contact points? If so, consider replacing. Also, is there any oil or water accumulation inside the distributor? It should be clean and dry.
 
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