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Rough idle
My 1989 civic hatchback idles perfectly with nothing turned on. But as soon as I turn the lights on or hit the brake it starts to idle rough. About 20% of the time it will idle perfectly and seems to compensate for the load, the rest of the time it cant
Any ideas? |
On my 90 I took off the air box & sprayed it with carb cleaner & that helped but the real help came when I ran a few tanks of fuel with lucas injector cleaner.
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Hello,
Have you checked for a vac. leak ,to do this spray carb. cleaner on vac. lines and listen for a advance in idle, then you found a leak. It could also be that the iacv is bad or needs to be cleaned. Hope you find the problem. Keep us updated on the progress. Thanks, :cool:2010cicivlx |
Originally Posted by 2010civiclx
(Post 736749)
Hello,
Have you checked for a vac. leak ,to do this spray carb. cleaner on vac. lines and listen for a advance in idle, then you found a leak. It could also be that the iacv is bad or needs to be cleaned. Hope you find the problem. Keep us updated on the progress. Thanks, :cool:2010cicivlx I went out and bought a bottle of lucas at wally world for 11 bucks. Have gone about 40 miles on the tank so far and it seems to have worked. Braking causes no idle change, lights cause no idle change. Doing both causes a slight drop but no where near as bad as it was. But then again ive only gone 40 miles. Thanks for the fix. |
If you have rpm drop with application of brake, you may have bad/leaky booster.
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Originally Posted by maachan513
(Post 736822)
If you have rpm drop with application of brake, you may have bad/leaky booster.
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Originally Posted by tasmanian
(Post 736845)
Im pretty sure its actually a leaky master cylinder. Since when I apply the brakes it slowly sinks.
Engine rpm drop as brake is applied is due to faulty booster diaphragm. Vacuum leak. I had changed one on my friend's Accord, in 1980 something. No, may be in the 90s. I don't remember. Too, many years ago. To see if this is what you have, apply pressure while idling as if you are in emergency stop. In some cases, engine will die. Alternator is kicking in as the lights on and brake being applied due to current draw. You may be noticing that rpm drop and may be worrying. How is battery condition? New? Old? Load tested lately? |
Originally Posted by maachan513
(Post 736848)
Sinking brake pedal is a problem in hydraulic system. Apply pressure to the pedal and see if it really sinks all the way to the end of travel.
Engine rpm drop as brake is applied is due to faulty booster diaphragm. Vacuum leak. I had changed one on my friend's Accord, in 1980 something. No, may be in the 90s. I don't remember. Too, many years ago. To see if this is what you have, apply pressure while idling as if you are in emergency stop. In some cases, engine will die. It used to drop rpm, it never killed the car. But would drop to like 300 rpm *probably no tach*. It doesnt drop at all now. Ive pushed really hard on the brakes now and no rpm drop. |
Originally Posted by maachan513
(Post 736848)
Alternator is kicking in as the lights on and brake being applied due to current draw. You may be noticing that rpm drop and may be worrying. How is battery condition? New? Old? Load tested lately?
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Originally Posted by maachan513
(Post 736852)
Well then. Replace brake master cylinder and you should be good to till something else is broken.
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