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Stalling, rough idle

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:17 AM
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Default Stalling, rough idle

I have a '95 Civic with D15B7 engine. I replaced TPS, Fit valve, IAC, Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, DC and rotor. The car runs good when cold, after car warms up to normal operating temperature, Car hardly breaks 55 mph (very hesitant). And when I reach a stop light car stalls or idles low as heck. Can anybody make a suggestion on what to do next. Possible slave cylinder, fuel injector, or fuel pressure regulator? Someone please help me.
 
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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Manual transmission, sorry forgot to add.
 
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:38 AM
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Check for vacum leaks ...and bleed the coolant system ......good luck
 
Old Apr 3, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Any CEL codes? Have you checked the ignition and mechanical timing?
 
Old Apr 4, 2010 | 05:09 AM
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I agree with Ron whenever you have really bad performance though no CEL codes, the cam timing should be checked. The timing belt could have skipped. It's pretty easy to check, you just need to loosen the valve cover and remove the upper timing belt plastic cover.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:14 AM
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Thanks guys, The timing was off as well prior to me replacing the stuff that has already been replaced. After the timing and valve clearance has been set, it still has this issue. The main thing is, when I'm at highway speed (struggleing to get there anyways), as soon as I press the clutch to disengage my gear, car tach drops fast and stalls. Could this be a trany issue. But I really noticed this to happen all together when I put Lucas fuel injector cleaner in tank, has anybody had problem with Lucas in there civic.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 03:14 AM
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And no codes as well has ever been thrown.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:19 AM
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It's an engine problem not a transmission problem. The OBD1 system does not check for misfires, so you could have dead cylinder(s) and there'd be no CEL. Test for dead cylinders by unplugging the fuel injectors one at a time with the engine idling. If you disconnect one and the engine doesn't slow down, that cylinder is dead. If it won't stay idling with all 4 connected, either (over)tighten the throttle cable or open the air screw on the top of the throttle body to increase idle speed.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 04:53 AM
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i had the same exact problem. but my car had full power. But it stalled when i pushed in the clutch and the RPMS will drop straight down and the engine dies. i never found what was the problem. i also adjusted the air screw, cleaned IACV, tweaked the throttle cable, and nothing fixed it. I just ended up installing a new motor.
 
Old Apr 5, 2010 | 06:04 AM
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Does the CEL work? When the key is turned to ON(II), it should turn on and then off after 2 seconds.

You could try compression testing the cylinders, measuring the fuel pressure, and cleaning the fuel injectors.

Also try replacing the PCV valve, as well as adjusting the idle speed:

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