Vacuum leak?
 

Well, I finally got the nerve to drive my '91 wagon on the street and found it ran fine - at over 4000 rpm. A pal at work suggested a vacuum line leak. I see the prices of silicone hoses are not exorbitant so I guess I'll go with this if you folks feel it is acceptable. Does anyone know what size(s) I will need?
Thing brakes much better than when my daughter had it and it needed a rebuilt LF caliper and new cv axle joints which it now has.

Does it have a carb system or is it fuel injected?

The fuel injected ones just idle too fast if there is a vacuum leak.

Fuel injection. The only other thing I can think of is timing. I ordered a new timing light today. Hope to get to it next week.
Any suggestions why I've got almost no power? Head rebuilt while off.

Start by taking the upper timing belt cover off so you can see the marks, and check the cam timing. (You will need to lift the valve cover to get the timing belt cover out from under it).

I bought a $17 timing light on eBay and set about checking the ignition. I went to the shop manual I downloaded on this site. I had to go to the supplement to find the late model info. After looking at the illustrations I was still stumped until I remembered past work under there and the fan. I still couldn't find the thing for the wire until I pulled up the rug. Then the thing was so small I thought it must be a bug put in by the NSA. But then I saw the two holes for the short and I knew I had found the mother lode. Then after getting everything ready and firing up the engine and letting it heat up I tried the light. I thought I saw a slightly reddish spot at about TDC so I advanced the distributor from its completely retarded position. I never could see my reddish mark again but the engine ran a bit stronger. I closed it up and drove it up and down hills in my 'hood. It seemed to run fine with the temp about at the middle. So now after almost 23 months I have a usable car.

Cool. The notches on the pulley are a lot easier to see under the timing light if you touch them up with white paint or chalk first. The distributor should end up about in the center of the adjustment range when properly timed. If you have to turn it all the way to the end you should investigate the possibility of the timing belt being off by 1 tooth.