wiper switch/control broken physically
The wiper control (the one to the right of the steering wheel column) seems to be physically broken.
Usually, you can pull it down and it will activate the wipers until you let go of the control lever. You can also pull it towards you to activate the washer fluid. However, it seems the recoil action is not there. Instead, the control lever just hangs and is loose. In fact, if I leave it hanging, it activates the wipers and they don't go off until I prop the control lever up with something. Has anyone had experience with this? I'm thinking about taking apart the steering column covers and taking off the wiper switch/control to see what's wrong. Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks, jbum |
RE: wiper switch/control broken physically
What year car is it?
on my 95 CX you can drop the steering column onto the seat by removing the plastic and metal panels from below the steering wheel, then removing two bolts and two nuts holding the column in place. Then you can get a good look at that control. I think you'd have the best luck just finding out how to replace it and nabbing one from a salvage yard. btw.. watch the airbag if you start dinking in that area |
RE: wiper switch/control broken physically
ORIGINAL: Stimpy What year car is it? on my 95 CX you can drop the steering column onto the seat by removing the plastic and metal panels from below the steering wheel, then removing two bolts and two nuts holding the column in place. Then you can get a good look at that control. I think you'd have the best luck just finding out how to replace it and nabbing one from a salvage yard. btw.. watch the airbag if you start dinking in that area airbag? i won't be touching anything else. |
RE: wiper switch/control broken physically
yeah especially be careful with airbags. it only takes the tiniest amount of electric current to set one off.
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I have a 95 Civic DX with a parasitic battery draw so I end up with a dead battery. I suspect the wiper control arm may be the issue. The lever won't stay firmly in the up/off position since something broke on the inside a few years ago. They go on when I drive over bumps, RR tacks, etc. How would I test for that? I've been reading up on fuses, and how to test with a multimeter. Is the arm even a viable suspect?
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