RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

i don't get the ast part. if you remvoe the head, take it to a good engine shop and have it inspected and get a valve job, and the mating surface decked to make it flat. that would probably cost about 200-300 bucks and would be toatlly worth it. the bottom end might as well recieve new rings and bearing if you going at it and do the whole engine.

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

Well see, here's the thing. I own 3 other vehicles (2 V8s and a V6) and I bought this strictly for better milage and dirt cheap insurance. I only paid $500 for this car and don't really wanna sink alot of money into it.
I know that this engine is probably due for a rebuild, but like I said, I don't want to put alot of cash into this at this time. Maybe further into this year, I may buy a new crate engine for it, but not for now. I'm gonna be doing all of this work myself too, given my cheap-skate policy with this car (heh).

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

just get the same motor for between 100-250 bucks

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

Where? I've only seen engines goin for about 400 n' 500, used.

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

dont understand about blowing the bottom end out ??? guess talking about the crank bearing going out?? dont know. If the bearings are good and the journals are good - i see no problem there.
there is a water test of the valves. with head off and rocker assembly off, turn the head upside down and fill the top cylinder with water.(the springs will have the valves in the closed position). the spark plugs need to be in, and tight. let it sit - see which one leaks - replace the valves on that one. (this test is not in the Haynes)
valves are hard to do without the right spring compressor. need one with an overhead arm that gives you room to work. i bought a cheap one from harbor freight. i spent a lot of time compressing the valve to get the keeper out. the valves are 10 bucks at hi-lo oreilley. can take the head to a head shop - may be 100 to 200 or so; saw a place in fort worth that sells those heads for i think 230. but i did my whole rebuild for probably 100.
I had a lot of build up of carbon in the port of cylinder #4. used a drill to loosen it. test of compression showed bad rings in cyl #2.
did rings, valve guide oil seals, and the 2 valves i needed, and the cam and crank seals. new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket (which i have yet to install)
except for that one crank bearing, all the bearings looked OK.

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

Yeah I'm not totally sure what he meant by "blowing the bottom end out" either, but I'm assuming since the rest of the engine is so old with so many miles, it'd be tough on it with some brand new hardware or something, I dunno.
But I've got it parked inside a storage garage I own with all my tools n' **** there, so I'll be trying to undertake this project here either today or soon.

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

is that junk yard.
might be good might not.
i am sure you can return; but look at all the work

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

You mean my engine that's currently in it? Nah, that's the factory engine from 1988.

RE: Zero Cylinder Compression...
 

no
was responding to "riceburner"

Have you had any overheating problems? It you have zero compression, I bet you've cracked a ring or blown a hole in the top of a piston. Head gasked would have to be completely shot and would probably affect two cylinders. Valve seals couldn't possibly be bad enough to cause this issue either. I suspect a broken piston. Take out your plugs and see if there is any metal filings on any of them. Also, drain the oil and see if there's any metal in there too.