Hello I have recently made the decision to turbo my civic. Its a 93 hatch, and its in pretty good condition. I have a jdm d15b and I have a few questions about my setup. Oh and my goals are: around 200whp, quick spool, and maintaining drivability.

I know how to tap my oil pan now. Thanks guys. And my turbo is a garrett t3. I got a new actuator that is set at 7lbs, so I'll be using an internal gate. I'm also going to use my hf manifold and just get an adapter plate.

And finally I hope to do the whole job including arp headstuds and a metal head gasket for under $1200. Let me know what you think of my list, and add anything I forgot.

Headstuds-120
Head Gasket-50
Exhaust mani- have...header style
Turbo (have)-paid 25 ( I know how ridiculous that sounds for a good garrett)
Downpipe (have)- Came with turbo
Intercooler + Charge piping-have
1g dsm bov-have
maybe injectors + resister box-(not sure of junkyard price on 450's)
Full 2.5 exhaust- have
Chipped p28 ecu-have
Short shifter-have
gauges- whatever it is at autozone
tune- goin with street tune on crome
Oil/Water lines- (probably under 100)
Clutch- going with a stage 2 most likely, just something that will hole around 200-250 ft/lbs($400+-)
Wastegate- in turbo

I'm sure I forgot something, but that list is good enough. I'll probably end up spending around 1500 when its all said and done. So let me know what you think of my build, and give me any suggestions that you may have for me. And let me know about those first questions. Oh... and I apologize about all of the questions, but I want to know the tips, tricks, and facts before I do a major modification.

Thanks,
Eric
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...98358523GqNifv
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...98358523yQBsqw (pics o' car)

 

for the oil drian, get some measurments of the turbos oil inlet/outlet and go to www.stealthmodeperformance.com to get the main components of the oil lines, and then www.amstreetrod.com and pick up some random pieces if they don't have the full kit for your turbo. The oil needs to be drained, pan dropped, oil drain adapter bolted on and then preferably welded onto the pan, then usually -10AN steel line between the pan and the turbo. It uses gravity for oil to flow through it, so the hose should be as vertical as possible, and the tap should be as high on the pan as possible before it hits some motor mounts/gets in hte way of some other ****

DSM injectors are dirt cheap, well under $100, and the hour or two or wiring is worht it for the price.

Head studs will be a good idea, add some reliability. hopefully funds aren't too tight, you'll be dropping lots of money on hoses, clamps, bolts, nuts, oil, gaskets, and many other random things.

For the charge piping make sure to get T-Bolts. They work much better than the standard crappy clamp. Upgraded clutch will be good when getting up and over 200hp, and a vaccuum manifold will be a great idea! The Golden Eagle one is kind of awkward since you have to drill it out and its really easy to knick the threads. I know tuner toys and a few other brands make them just with plugs instead of just drilling out the ports you need, and i think that'd be much more convenient.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to a junk yard Saturday, so I'll pick up a bov and some 450's.
I'll probably get an extra oil pan in case I **** mine up.
Edit- I'll be funding this operation with the sale of my cbr 600, so I'll have a couple grand to spend. But I'd like to save some of it, so I'm going the cheap route.

 

congrats on the build. For the turbo, isn't it internally gated? Also, it should have an ID/serial # somewhere on it on the compressor side. It should have like a 7 digit number or something like that (assuming it's a factory turbo); see if you can't get the number and google it.

And personally, I'd just go with a tial wastegate if you end up going with an external unit; they aren't that expensive ($300). There are some things you can skimp on with turbo builds (the BOV for example), and there are things I wouldn't leave up to fate. The wastegate is one of those things; if it fails to open, good-bye turbo, and possibly good-bye engine.

Also, if you get an Air/Fuel guage, make sure it's wide-band. Narrow-bands are nothing but light shows.

*edit: ZOMG. You're selling your cbr600 to pay for your project... I sold my f4i last week to pay for mine... holy f**k that's weird lol

 

Do some more research, i can tell that you have a lot of unknowns in your knowledge. Also head studs are only 100 for a set (i think i paid 98 shipped) and for a vacuum manifold, buy a fast turbo one. I love mine, came with brass fittings and some set screws for the empty ones for 40shipped

 

Yeah it is internally gated, but the actuator was locked up. I'm not sure where to get another one, and I wanted to go external anyway because stock spring is 12 psi. I already welded the wastegate shut, and I'm sealing off the the bypass canal (Not sure if that is actual name, but the tunnel inside going to wastegate) with jb weld. (for best flow possible)
And thanks Flip, Reaper, and GReddy I hope to learn a great deal from you guys. I'll keep you up to date on the setup.
Oh and Reaper my 600 is kinda poopy; its an 87. It is the first year for the cbr. The bike is almost identical to ones ten years newer. Its a dohc, liquid cooled, 12k rpm machine that is faster than I will ever need.

 

you don't need 2 holes in your oil pan, just 1 for the return, you need a T fitting for your oil pressure sending unit and that is where your send line goes

 

So I identified my turbo. Its a t3. I am fairly certain, although it could be a t25(doubt it though, to big). So I jacked up the rear end to fix my exhaust hanger, and a rubber bushing fell off of my shocks lol. I put it back on, and while its up I'm putting new breaks on. After that I'll be in pristine mechanical condition. I'm heading to the junk yard tomorrow to get a bov and some 450's. Oh and I got some oil lines and a tapped pan today. Really the job is coming together nicely, and I hope to be completely done with everything by spring(I'll be getting parts as I get the money, and money is an issue for a high school student)
Edit- I'll get some pics up sometime in the next couple days of my parts and car.

 

you think money is tight? Try being a college student buying a second car and managing a turbo project... I'm actually going to have to store my mustang for a year or so because I can't afford insurance on two cars while at school.

but good luck on the build

 

^^^^^+1
I workd 75 hr weeks to pay for it. And now i have a 800$ credit card bill, 600$ insuarnce bill, and rent to pay....with 400$ to my name. Do the math....being in college sucks