Just a few questions that i've got after reading Tony' "Building a Turbo Kit":

- Where does the turbo get its oil fed from? Where can you tap in? I understand the return line to the pan, but just dont really get the oil-feed line.

- How do you wire in a resistor box for your new DSM-450 injectors?

- Since you have a custom downpipe, do you need any o2 sensors in it? He mentioned using the bung for a wideband and if you're not using a wideband you need to plug it. So you dont need any o2 sensors? And when you chip/tune the ECU, does this take away the CEL that i imagine you get?

- Other than the wastegate and BOV, what other parts need a vaccuum source? And if you dont go the vacuum manifold route, where can you run the vaccuum lines from?

- When buying a turbo with an internal wastegate, is it already set at certain PSI? Like you can buy a turbo with an internal wastegate that is already pre-set to the PSI you want? He mentioned a boost controller cant lower the PSI, so are different turbos rated for different wastegates before you buy them?

 

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First and foremost Forty's DIY was just on how expensive it is to build your own kit and how many tedious things you need aside from all the bigger parts.

1) turbo gets its oil feed from the engine and the oil you use to put in there. you put a t-fitting on the back of the block that replaces your oil pressure sender i believe is what its called, or you can take an oil sandwich and you is to go over where your filter is. then you put your feed line into this mechanism you use.

2) if you search there has been a lot of topics about this and a diagram that has been made

3) you do not need any o2 sensors in your downpipe, but you will need to make an o2 bung so when you goto the tuner's he/she can plug their wideband into the o2 bung to get all your air/fuels, temps, etc. you should not be throwing any CELs as well.

4) boost gauge needs to be hooked up to a vac source. if you dont use a vac mani you will have to use a lot of plastic Ts to connect all your vac sources.

5) yes the internally gated turbos are already set at a psi, normally 7 or 8 psi on any internally gated turbo. you can only raise these boost levels by using a boost controller.

 

I know its not a DIY, its just in DIY section thats all.

response to #4: where are some vac sources located at?

Thanks alot though Tyler

 

you will have to cut your brake booster to get your vac source

 

cool, thanks alot man, the vacuum manifold seems like a convenient thing though.

Anyone else have any input?

 

get the vac mani, it will save you a lot of time and make all the vac lines look cleaner

 

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/faq.html

at the very bottom of that site they got some good info for a vac manifold, you conect the vac manifold to just one vac source and then theres a bunch of vac outputs out of that, correct? Thats sweet

Anyone have a diagram of where to put the t-bracket on the back of the block? (thats talked about in the response to question 1)

 

Thanks Tyler, good info!


Flip, if you take a good look at the back of your block, right above the Oil Filter you will see the little sending unit, with a wire into it to read pressure. You basically mount the new T onto that. There are a few different ways of hooking up your oil feed line, but that seems to be the most common. On Tyler's setup he used the Sandwich Adapter (which is in my write up) which makes it a little more efficient, and less dangerous.

You are correct on the Vacuum Manifold. What you do is Cut the Brake booster line AFTER the one-way check valve, so that the valve is in between the vacuum mani and the brake booster. Run the brake booster line into the side of the vacuum mani, then from one of the ports on the mani, connect it to where the brake booster line used to be hooked up. Then, put in as many nipples as you need, and run your lines

 

get the T for the oil feed from stealthmode.com